Musashi-Itsukaichi to Mitake hike again
I did this exact hike in November 2017. I remember enjoying it a lot so I repeated it today. I also enjoyed it today.
The hike starts at the end of the Musashi-Itsukaichi line, at the station of the same long hyphenated name, and ends at Mitake station on the Okutama line. Which means I hiked over the mountains from one train line to another. This is the sort of thing that I find exciting to do. There is no road joining them either.
All up it is about a 20km hike including the descent down the road from Mount Mitake to Mitake station. You can take the cable car / funicular railroad down from there, but that is not my style.
Despite the long length, it is a fairly easy hike, despite having just over 1000m of vertical ascent. There are 3 peaks to go up and down, Aso, Hinode and Mitake. Much of the course is flat and smooth, so you can trail run to save time.
Prior to Hinodesan, I passed only 1 group of people, after that you run into lots of people that came up using the cable car to visit the temple and got bored of that so decided to go on a 'hike' down the stair case (photos of stairs below).
In other news, right now on Japanese TV there seems to be a hostage situation unfolding live inside The Warabi Post Office which is in Saitama, north of here. I could go and cover it live for Australian TV?
This is the Musashi-Itsukaichi station which really needs a shorter name. It is a pretty large town at the base of the mountains at the end of the train line. Quite a few school kids rode the train out to here to go to school.
Station as seen from the outside. I found a convenience store to buy my supply of muesli bars and pocari sweat for the day.
The first part of the hike is steep, but on a concrete path to this semi manicured garden area. I remembered it from last time.
Obviously there is a shrine. Last time I got a bit lost here looking for the path behind it to take me to the mountains beyond. I think they have improved the signage since then.
There are even public toilets in the garden area. No one at all around, so I just urinated in the open like a filthy animal.
I tried not to take too many path shots today! The paths were often smooth like this, and generally in tall cedars, many areas are due to be logged, or have been logged, and have probably been planted specifically to be logged in the future.
Signs of logging, and wires. I also remembered this from last time, the new trees have grown a lot since then.
This is the summit of Mount Aso. Getting grey now. Tokyo in the distance. There are paths to bypass both Aso and Hinode if you just want to get to Mitake without going up and down, but obviously, I like to go up and down.
And took the required sweaty selfy. I put the same still sweaty clothes back on from 2 days ago, I will probably grow a new species of fungus eventually.
The summit area of Mount Mitake is actually a little village below a shrine, with shops and restaurants. Quiet today, horrific on weekends.
Time to start the ascent to the shrine. The priests were growling through a P.A. system to warn all those who approach.
I actually got a photo of it this time, a blurry photo. Parts of the line are on the top of poles as per the previous photo, parts are on the ground.
Once you are at the bottom, its still a couple more km back to Mitake station. There is a bus waiting for the cable train thing, but of course, no bus for me!
OK, I take this shot on every trip. It is Mitake gorge. My previous shots on sunny days are better than today's, but it is still a nice photo.
Same location, looking off the other side of the bridge. A few kayakers today. Apparently kayakers is not a word. I beg to differ.
I had to wait 20 minutes for a train at Mitake station, which means it is time for 'the stance'. Should have gone lower. Why do I look fat?
Due to excess exertion in the day, tonight will be a smaller outing, do not expect too many pics.
First of all, the post office hostage situation is ongoing. Two people taken hostage at gun point after an earlier shooting of two different people at a hospital. It is big enough news that it is on the BBC. I saw footage of the hand gun. The last shooting in Japan was of former president Abe, for that shooting the guy needed to make a gun at home. I might go to the spot Abe was shot and killed at in a week or so.
Second of all, it is Halloween, and the mayor of Shibuya convinced me to not go, after he ordered the army to arrest all foreigners who dare to enter to take photos of Halloween. This is a reaction to the Seoul Halloween crowd crush that killed 159 people last year, a couple of days before I arrived there on my holiday before last (I take a lot of holidays). Although it is unclear why foreigners are being targeted so specifically by the mayor, it has become a meme of sorts on various parts of the internet where foreigners living in Japan frequent and discuss ridiculous things. There are stories in the news like, 'a bike was stolen in Hakodate 2 days ago, police are questioning foreigners at the train station to find out if they have been near the area'.
So after all that, it was time to go north a bit, to the next station which is Akihabara. It was quiet, but lots of tourists. For many people this area is the highlight of their visit to Japan, including most of the non Japanese people on my flight here.
After verifying that my favourite camera of which I have already destroyed 2 of, which is out of stock in Australia is also out of stock in Japan, not that I actually want to buy another one.... I suddenly felt very hungry, and so headed straight down a flight of stairs to the local Go Go Curry - the chain famous for having a Gorilla as it's logo.
I did not catch the train here. I walked, along and under the train track. It is not far at all from Kanda, there is a little pedestrian bridge over a river just before you hit Akihabara.
Both Yodobashi and Bic camera are fully sold out of Ricoh GR III cameras. Given that I have broken 2 of them beyond repair after taking about 1000 photos on each, I should be in no rush to buy a third. I wish they would hurry up and release a new version that is more dust and water proof!
The spot. A guy parked his Toyota BRZ covered in ridiculous stickers in front of me illegally hoping I would take his photo. He seemed annoyed when I moved closer to the train bridge so that his car was not in my photo. He had a giant teddy bear in the passenger seat, so I did not want to anger him.
Hmm, not a very sharp photo. It is hard to take a sharp shot while walking across the road at full zoom at night at 1/25 hand held.
And here it is, Go Go Curry, pork sausage variety. This is the healthiest looking thing on their menu, everything else is combos of deep fried stuff on top of the curry. It is no Coco. It is however cheap and they take credit card. And on that note, everywhere I have been so far has taken credit card, I am yet to use cash even once other than to recharge my train card when I first landed.
Showa memorial park
First, the important update. The post office hostage situation is over. The gunman was 86! Did he still have his gun from ww2? He shot two people in a hospital, neither died, and held 2 women hostage for a few hours in a post office before police arrested him. Maybe he fell asleep?
And of course, we have the Halloween aftermath. Now I know no one will believe this, but on the news this morning, in Japanese so I do not know what was being said, was an old guy, possibly the mayor of Shibuya, holding an ipad (the reporter bowed to him a lot). It appeared to be connected to a smart camera that does facial recognition. It showed how many men, women, and FOREIGNERS, were passing the camera per minute. They then showed footage from last night of police using the same system. So there you go, a foreigner detecting AI camera network prevented world war 3 in Shibuya.
Is there any way the 86 year old gunman from story one can be a foreigner too?
Now for today's non hiking day adventure. While heading to my hike yesterday as the train passed Tachikawa, I spotted a sign advertising a huge park, and so I googled it. It looked good so I went there today.
It is indeed huge. There is a $5 entry fee. It seems to be all lit up at night, especially the ginkgo trees and Japanese garden. There may be an extra fee to go into the lit up areas at night, I saw signs telling you to reserve tickets online. It took me about 2.5 hours to walk around, so it really is a very big park. I should have put on sunscreen, clear blue sky and 23c today.
Before heading to the park I wandered the local area waiting for the rush hour to pass so I could have a less sneeze and cough filled train journey. This is the area around Ochanomizu, at rush hour they now close the streets around the station to cars to make room for pedestrians exiting the station.
Ochanomizu is where the guitar street is. Obviously nothing open at 8am, and most windows had roller shutters preventing me from window shopping.
Tashikawa is a huge place. This is a monorail going overhead. In addition to the Isetan seen here there is also a Takashimaya. The streets all have elevated walkways to keep shoppers away from the store entrances.
Time to go into the garden. I really hate my camera today, it struggles with yellow a lot. It hates any scene with contrast, I will no doubt rant about this a lot.
I think these are also ginkgo trees, but it is not the main ginkgo lit up avenue of wonder, which I show below. It is a bit early for peak ginkgo.
This guy has brought his doll to the ginkgo so he take upskirt photos of her holding a broom. He had a $5000 camera, lights, external flash rigs, a whole trolley full of gear.
And as per today's title, here are the bird cock golf courts. A variation on croquet golf, for this version you hit a shuttlecock with a golf club into a basket. It seems popular. They also had a full frolf course (frisbee golf). So basically every form of golf that is not actual golf.
Because phone cameras do not exist in Japan, they have installed this camera. To use it, you download an app on your phone, pay money, then control it from your phone. While I was waiting to take a photo of it, 2 people used it as a tripod for their phone to take a phone pic.
This is a good idea. People buy all kinds of picnic equipment and use it once in their lives. Now you can avoid that mistake and rent all of it. The guy who runs the place seemed annoyed I was taking a photo praising his business.
On my return journey I stopped at the Tashikawa station complex for a sit down lunch from Andersons bakery. The apple cake thing is a cake with apples on top and in the middle of it. Apparently it is apple festival week. It was delicious. Also, 'salad drink', presumably made from blending up the bits of salad that fall out of peoples sandwiches. That's all for now.
Shibuya to Shinjuku via Harajuku
I thought I had better go and witness the aftermath of the devastation of Halloween in Shibuya. There was nothing destroyed or on fire to see although I did find one banner declaring a ban on Halloween. The special army did not capture me. This is the riskiest thing I have done on this trip, more so than last nights Go go curry.
In the course of my numerous trips I have walked between Shibuya and Shinjuku a number of times, it has changed a lot during this time, but also not changed at all, I will elaborate.
Shibuya is now much more popular than it once was, with lots of big new buildings, big new stores etc. However for the last decade, the station itself has been blocked off with white plastic sheeting everywhere and detours that make no sense, and that is still the case.
Then when I got to Shinjuku station I thought surely they have made some progress there? No, still the same giant construction zone of white plastic sheeting it has been for about 8 years.
My 2 other observations, Harajuku itself is very much in decline. Not nearly as busy or interesting as it once was. Although the boutique stores behind it at Omotesando are as pretentious as ever.
The last station on the walk before Shinjuku is Yoyogi and that area seems much more lively than I remember. I did not do an exploration of Shinjuku itself tonight, I shall leave that for another night.
Also I stayed out until 8pm, which is really late for me!
You can line up to have your photo taken with the worlds saddest dog. For Halloween they covered him in white plastic to discourage foreigners.
If you squint you can see Guzman y Gomez, which has somehow lasted many years in this location. The Australian fake mexican food brand now has multiple stores in Tokyo.
And finally, here is my late dinner. Oil ramen. It is a thicker style of ramen, floating in a layer of flavoured oil. Delicious.
WARNING: tomorrow is a boring hiking day.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
jenny on 2023-11-01 said:
ramen looks delicious
David on 2023-11-01 said:
autumn color in tokyo at sea level is not really here yet, I read Nikko was at its peak about 2 weeks ago
mother on 2023-11-01 said:
photos look better than fine so don't know what you are complaining about. New camera shopping time?
traveller5 on 2023-11-01 said:
I see a bit of Autumn colour which wasn't around when I was in Tokyo 2 weeks ago.
Onoyama from Yamakita to Yaga Station
Today I had an all day battle with trains.
First of all, I made a mistake I have made before. If you have a Suica/Pasmo/Icoca/Toica/Kitaca etc. then you will know that they are interchangeable and work all over Japan, despite being issued by a specific region of Japan, e.g. Suica in Tokyo and Icoca in Osaka. However you can not board a train in say, a Suica region, and get off in a Toica region, as I did today. If you plan to cross regions you are supposed to buy a paper ticket. The region boundaries are generally in the middle of nowhere to prevent this, but for some people who live in these remote areas it annoys them every single day.
Of course, Japan knows people will do what I did, and have ways of dealing with it. The first way is that the stations near the border have no ticket guard. So when you get off you try to scan your card, it won't work and it marks your card as locked... and you go on your merry way. Then when you return to a real station, your card is locked and you have to explain to the gate guard what happened and he adjusts it all on a machine and gives it back to you. So it is no big deal, but it does beg the question, if I can tell the guard I rode from Kanda to Yamakita and then from Yaga to Matsuda and he can put my card onto a machine and type that in and deduct the fare, then why cant the gates at the stations do the same?
So that was part one of train issues, the second was considerably more annoying. On what was already a 2 hour journey in each direction, on my way back the Odakyu line I was on had a fault of some kind, and I had to figure out what was going on when the Japanese announcements caused everyone to run off the train and go to another line. After a bit of googling I figured out the way to get back to Tokyo was to back track a couple of stations, transfer to a Keio line, and then transfer back to a JR train near Shinjuku. So my journey back involved 2 private train companies as well as JR.
As for the hike itself, it was all about the view of Mount Fuji. I knew the weather was clear so I went to a hike with a view especially. It was a good view, but a bit hazy, I have had clearer views from elsewhere. There were a few other people on the trail, mainly coming up the way I came down which is the side that has considerably better views. I will describe the hike more below as there are a lot of pics and my train rant did go on and on.
The view from Yamakita station. This is past Yokohama, near Hakone. A rural station, but there is a convenience store nearby.
Although I had walked along a trail for a while, it came to a road with a farming village, and these painted figures. Big deal you may think?
Well apparently they think it is a big deal because they installed a vending machine selling nothing but miniature versions of the same figures for you to take home and paint yourself.
This little farming village was built here for the view. The is the last view spot of Fuji until you get to the summit of Mount Ono, sometimes written as Oono or Ohno (I saw all three).
Still no real coloured leaves. I think Hiroshima where I am going tomorrow is a bit cooler, so might be more colourful there already.
The trail is in woods for an hour or so, then comes out at this spot, with fields of wheat or similar.
I have climbed most of those mountains, this is looking back to the north east. At least one of them is Tanzawa from where I got the best Fuji shots ever.
And then you come up around and over the summit, and its all Fuji views for the rest of the hike. Wide view first.
I came out of the forest in a very picturesque area. A small man waving a red baton by some roadworks was very excited to see me. I suspect no cars came past him all day, just a few hikers.
It was not too late at this point, the hike was 12km and only 4 hours, but I did not yet know it would be 3 hours on the train to get back to my hotel.
Ginza from Kanda to Shimbashi
After the long day of train fighting, I decided to stay fairly local this evening, and walk down Ginza and gawk at the coloured lights and fancy buildings and Russian oligarchs of which there were many. An annoying new feature of the main street through the area is all the double parked cars with their hazard lights on. This never used to be a thing. People are too lazy to walk anywhere these days. I blame the scooters that were the subject of a mini rant under the first pic of this journey 6 days ago.
Back to Ginza, and there is a lot of construction going on, including 3/4 of the main corner, I will explain that below.
For my dinner, I headed into the Takashimaya annex, a place I have always found a great meal, it is not part of the actual department store food area as such, just half a dozen semi casual places to sit and have a meal. On previous trips I have had the deli salad selection food box thing, but this time, double curry.
It is traditional when the head Samurai of a family dies, that he be scalped, and his scalp is transplanted onto the head of the next born male heir. Here are a few fresh scalps.
Here is Takashimaya. Actually it is 3 buildings on this side of the road and one on the other side, linked by a tunnel.
And... double curry. It appeared to be made by a subcontinental gentleman. You could choose from a few, I got spicy beef on the right and aged butter tomato on the left, whatever that is. It was delicious. Nearly as good as Go go.
Under the bridge where it kinks around the corner, at full zoom. I have taken a shot from here on many a previous trip.
Here is the main corner, with the fancy Nissan shop. The 2 corners behind me are full construction zones currently.
After getting to the end of the flash part of Ginza I turned right and ended up at the very busy Shimbashi.
However there was another chance for a beneath the tracks photo, so here it is.
Tomorrow, I take the Shinkansen to Hiroshima. 3.5 hours or thereabouts.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
bobule on 2023-11-09 said:
beef looks good. trails look amazing, would love to walk there.
母亲 on 2023-11-02 said:
今天 的 风景 很 美, 咖喱 也 很 好 吃
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
母亲 on 2023-10-31 said:
咖喱 看 起来 不 好 吃
adriana on 2023-10-31 said:
you do not look fat. Your face looks gaunt.