Melbourne to Cairns
Just over a year ago, I was all set to head off to Japan after having cancelled the 2 previous years due to the ongoing pandemonium. Everything was pointing to the borders surely being reopening by November, surely? The various old guys that form the almost entirely male parliament of Japan started talking about pure Japanese blood and the risk of non pure blood causing mutations in the until now pure strains of COVID that Japan had been blessed with. Come mid October 2022, the messaging seemed to revert back to 'Japan is closed to any non Japanese'. So for the third year in a row I cancelled my annual trip and re booked to head back to Korea for the second time in a year, which you can also read all about on this website.
Of course, after hearing I had cancelled my trip, literally as soon as the government of Japan could coordinate an emergency meeting via facsimile, they immediately threw open the borders, going from being the last country in the world other than North Korea with restrictions, to having zero restrictions of any kind. But they had succeeded in keeping me out.
Fast forward a year and I am off to Melbourne airport for my flight to the former second last hermit kingdom on earth, via Cairns. The first leg to Cairns takes about 3.5 hours. I do not think I have been to Cairns airport before, so that is kind of exciting.
Backtracking slightly, as I do, naturally, the Skybus to Melbourne airport featured people who clearly had ebola and galloping knob rot (that is a real thing, look it up).
Describing how sick everyone is will be a constant feature of this ridiculously long diatribe, the highlight of the bus illnesses was the woman with whooping cough so bad she was sobbing and seemed to be saying 'why will nobody help me?' between desperate gasps for air.
So on that note, evidently Australia is now in a secret seventh wave and Japan has banned all discussion of their superior ninth wave. As usual, Japan is ahead of Australia.
I think a recent trip my first photo featured the blight of all society, the rental scooter. So to celebrate the fact that people keep dying on these things while drunk weekly, and occasionally killing innocent old ladies, here is a photo of the government sponsored population control devices.
The Virgin lounge had nutri grain. Very important and exciting news. Without this there would be a niacin deficiency in my diet today.
And now for jet 1 of 2 for the day. An older 737. This one will take me to Cairns. It is the model that is not famous for plummeting out of the sky, I will be on one of those new ones later. This photo deliberately shot through filthy glass.
Cairns Airport
I am currently in the Cairns international departure hall for the first time in my life. It is tiny. The domestic terminal was surprisingly huge and busy, but here in international, mine is the only flight leaving for another 7 hours, and it is a tiny plane.
The flight to get here was full of holidaying families, horrible. A stark reminder of the horrors of having children. Multiple children watched bluey and or peppa pig on ipads with no headphones, just loud pig and dog noises for 3.5 hours.
Actually before taking off we waited in a queue on the ground in Melbourne for a runway inspection for 30 minutes, this is the second time that has happened to me recently. So I am here in Cairns a bit later than expected, sandwiches are $13 so I am not buying, there is no lounge, and my 7.5 hour flight to Tokyo requires paying for food. I guess I will starve then.
Here is the Cairns international departures hall. The Virgin desk is manned but it seems almost everyone is transferring from other cities, they even mentioned it on my Melbourne flight, 'for all those heading to Tokyo...'. Cairns is the spot to transfer as it is the only airport in Australia from which Japan is in range using such small jets. Why does this photo look blurry?
This is my plane. The terrifying 737 max! Famous for a software glitch that so far murdered about 350 people and nearly sent Boeing broke. I made sure to also take this photo through dirty tinted glass, it helps with the realism. Note it's ridiculous wing tips inspired by star wars.
And for the last pic from Australia unless something interesting finally happens, here is the departure area of the international terminal. There will probably be a third update tonight when I get to my Tokyo hotel, because I know everyone is super excited about hotel photos for some ridiculous reason (this sentence is not sarcasm, unlike most others).
Flying to Tokyo on a Boeing 737 Max
A rare third update. This level of multiple updates only happens on my journey to my destination. Although this 3rd update is a bit different and will be a mix of future, present and past tenses and chronologically all over the place. Right now I am typing this bit, while sitting on the plane. Still about 2 hours to go. The flight has been a pleasant surprise. It is only about half full and I have an entire block of 3 seats to myself. There are a lot of Japanese people onboard, which is also surprising. The remaining guests are almost entirely weeaboos with their pink hair and cat ear headphones. They have enough room to form some sort of club house in the middle of the plane and compare pokemons. I really think people that did not know each other before the flight are playing some kind of card game across about 4 rows. Finally, there is also one old grumpy white guy, typing on his laptop.
The 737 max is quiet like a dreamliner, I guess it has new style engines, and some plastic bits to make it lighter so that it can make the journey from Australia to Japan. So far the seats seem good, about 5 hours in. I bought cheese and crackers and an orange juice, food on the plane is actually cheaper than food in the airport, by a considerable margin. So that is enough for now, but there will be a bit more procedural ramblings below this line... once I land, get to my hotel, and type a bit more.
Now as promised, the final bit.
I am in my hotel. Exiting Haneda airport was smooth enough, I had the 2 x QR codes you need these days so I could bypass queues. It took a while for the plane to find a parking spot, it was a really long but welcome walk to immigration, and then all the bags took a while to come. Once outside the controlled area, the ATM is right there and the monorail is about 50 metres away. Somehow I got an express so that was great.
This ends this long day of typing stuff.
Here is a photo of the sunset I took out the window of the plane. This is also an unusual activity for me. You see, on long flights on big twin aisle jets, I prefer an aisle seat in the middle block of 3 or 4 seats. But since this is a tiny plane with only one aisle up the middle, there is no middle block. I normally do not take my laptop out on flights either, but since I have a whole block of 3 seats to myself, there is room for my elbows, and I can also press my camera against the window for a sunset view. Soak it in.
Proof that I went on the monorail. I do not look as dried up and wrinkled as usual due to it being a day time flight with lots of room to sit.
Now prepare yourselves for peak excitement, here is my hotel room. It is Sotetsu Fresa Kanda. I have not stayed at a Fresa Inn before, I normally seem to prefer the Nazi imperial Apa chain, but when I booked my accommodation a year ago, Sotetsu was the only cheap chain available. The room seems identical to Apa except there are no free books declaring that the owner wants to cut my head off.
Hiking Jinba and Takao from Fujino station
The best way to recover from sitting in a metal tube for 11 or so hours is to set an early alarm and head off on a 26km, 37,000 step hike. Generally this is not advisable, everything swells up on flights, but especially feet. But I am a master of doing things to deliberately annoy my better judgement.
My destination today, the closest mountain to Tokyo of Takao. Everyone has been to Takao. I have been at least twice before. I have also been to Jinba form Takao before. Today I started at a point further up the Chuo line and worked my way all the way back past the cable car and walked back down a quiet trail direct into Takao station.
It was not a technical hike at all, just long, much of it is smooth enough to make it a favourite for trail runners. It being a Sunday, the parts closer to the cable car station were very busy, as you shall see.
I took too many photos of just a hiking trail that are really not interesting, but allow me to add a few quips below.
My hotel is a street away from Kanda station, which is a station on the Chuo line, which has a special rapid train that comes regularly. I would take it today and change only at Takao. All up about an 80 minute journey. Here is... the view from Kanda station
Here is the view from Fujino station. I was surprised when I woke up that a rain storm was clearing, that was not forecast. Anyway by the time I got off the train, the rain was gone. Already talking about the weather.
The first part of my journey required going through this tunnel. It has a bit reserved for pedestrians and bikes so it wasn't too death defying.
Take the left hand path! Actually the right hand path is ok too I think, but as a general rule, always take the left hand path.
Some sections were smooth enough to run along, so I did. So did many others. I do not know how they run down slippery bits as fast as they do.
There it is, the Jinba marker. Person and horse as one body is a Japanese four-character compound describing unity of horse and rider which is pertinent to Yabusame, Japanese mounted archery. It is generally known as penis head horse. I made jokes about this last time. However I remember penis head horse being much larger?
Here is the next peak of sorts. This cafe has fallen into disrepair. There are views of Fuji along this trail, but it was covered in cloud today.
I was getting closer to Takao now, there were more people. All of them have bear bells. Should I get a bear bell? At times I could hear 20 bear bells at once. The bears prefer people to have a bell ringing, makes it easier to find you.
Low bamboo. I know its not actually bamboo, but I like it and I will continue to call it low bamboo.
I went to that lake and the mountains behind it last time I was here. The trail had been destroyed by a typhoon and my descent was perilous.
Heres the main view spot that people go to. On a clear day you can see Fuji from here. There were really many thousands of people up here, my photos don't show it. I moved on quickly.
The descent down to the cable car station goes past some shrines of course. The idea being that when you catch the cable car up, you go past the shrines to get to the view, and probably pay them.
Different kind of shrine. Warnings about staying away from Shibuya for Halloween are very prominent at the moment. Especially if you are a foreigner.
Look in that bag. They bought their little plush toys with them to enjoy the view. There were also many dogs being pushed around in baby strollers, and at least one old lady with a life like baby doll dressed as a princess.
I continued past the cable car station and found this view, and a sign saying alternate path to Takao station. Which is exactly what I was looking for.
The path back is about 2.5km and very lonely. There is a closer train station run by Keio corp, but that then changes at Takao anyway, so I decided to use this mystery trail and walk back to JR Takao station.
Kanda to Tokyo station
With the way the flight worked, I got here the same day as I left Australia, then I took a train to my hotel, which is one street from the station, went to bed, woke up soon after, walked that one street again, went out of the city, walked a great distance mostly away from civilization, caught the train back, walked one street to my hotel, and then went out this evening. So since getting here I walked the same one block of Tokyo 4 times and that is all I had seen other than trees and trains.
Tonight I still have not seen much of Tokyo as I did too much walking in the woods earlier, but I did go along a familiar route to Tokyo station and find some omurice for dinner.
The streets were quieter than I was expecting, however the underground mall around the station was very busy.
I am too tired to type anything to amuse myself, so onto the pics.
Behold, Tokyo station. That reminds me, I think I need to go scan a QR code to get a ticket for my trip to Hiroshima on Friday.
This is character street. Shops for people that enjoy brands and corporate profits. Too busy for me. No hello kitty purchases tonight. Ramen street was also too busy, no ramen for dinner tonight.
I headed away from the main underground mall area to the adjoining Yaesu underground mall area. Far less busy, but mainly underwear and old man shoe shops.
When I saw this spot, which is 4 curry restaurants clumped together, I thought for sure my dinner would come from here. But no, a man ran out of one of the places and projectile sneezed across the corridor, followed by his wife running out with a tissue. He then sneezed a few more times and went into a coughing fit before being lead away while his wife apologised to everyone. So I moved on.
Omurice it is. I got the seasonal mushroom special. Quite a small serve, so now I am eating some crab flavoured peanut snacks.
My journey back to my hotel went past the end of the main Ginza street, but I bypassed it for now and walked back along some back streets instead, thus ensuring I cracked 50k steps for the day. Needless to say, tomorrow is not a hiking day.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
bobule on 2023-11-09 said:
the mountain walk looked epic!
mother on 2023-10-29 said:
You'll be wearing your shoes out before the end of the trip at this rate
山雪 on 2023-10-29 said:
美丽 的 云彩, 美丽 的 风景, 美丽 的 树
Hamarikyu gardens
Welcome to a rest day. Where I just casually stroll around for 6.5 hours straight without stopping with no plan.
I woke up sore as I expected, but nothing cures soreness like a long walk, and right now most of the soreness is gone, so hopefully I am good to go for another proper adventure tomorrow. Of course I am still in the window of will I get covid from the plane flight or not, where my chronic hypochondria mistakes dehydration and joint soreness from running up a mountain for sure signs of impending respiratory failure. But I digress.
My stroll this morning was south, through Ginza before it opened, to a park that I think I intended to go to on the last trip but refused to because of the $3 entry fee. Today I paid the $3. The park was nice enough, there are nicer ones around for free, but I guess the good thing about a fee is that it was almost empty. So I took my mask off and breathed in some non filtered air. In case anyone is wondering, mask usage in Tokyo by my estimation has returned to pre covid levels. I still wear one except when hiking, or in an abandoned park, it helps prevent me from being detected by the facial recognition AI devices looking for foreigners planning on going to Shibuya on Halloween.
The flipside of that, Mitsukoshi stores are all over Taiwan, which is somewhat more surprising that they lasted beyond the occupation.
Japanese police station. We really need a few of these police posts in central Melbourne these days.
Here is the entrance of Hamarikyu gardens. It was built Goku, the feudal emperor of the ancient land of Wakoku in 1100 4D.
The flower garden was in the process of being replanted, it is generally much larger, but still large enough for me to make it look large in this photo. I had to politely wait for that girl trying to photograph butterflies to stop bending over.
The title of today's update is a direct quote from this sign. There really is a monument for the souls of dead ducks.
I reflected on the tragic loss of millions of dead ducks by staring at the reflections of these buildings.
Tokyo station. I do not actually need to collect tickets, the QR code from my online purchase is the ticket. Actually it is more complex than that. When you buy online tickets these days, you can choose to generate a QR code or not. If you generate a QR code, you cannot collect a ticket, as you already generated it. If you dont generate the QR code, you can go to the machines in the station to generate the QR code. At least I hope that is correct.
I treated myself to a 7-eleven lunch of salad, sandwich and tea. Very delicious, and cheap! I was excited at how cheap lunch was. Tonight I will go somewhere new.
Kinshicho for dinner
Tonight I took the Sobu rapid 2 stops over to Kinshicho. I had never been there before, but it has lots of shops and a few different train lines that all merge there. There is no old covered shopping street though.
The area is located a km or two South of the Skytree. It was big enough for me to wander around without getting bored, my original plan was to walk back but I spent enough time there that I took a train back.
Behind the station is a bit of a night life area, and then there is an out of the way large mall slightly too far from the station area to make sense. I walked to the mall thinking I would start my food court odyssey, but the food court had no ramen, and tonight I wanted ramen.
So I walked back to the main Kinshicho area looking for ramen, when I saw tomato ramen. My favourite.
But was it the right tomato ramen or a knock off? The menu was different, the logo looked the same, the chain I like has an outlet in Taiwan also. It was ok, but it was not as thick as the one I remember, and they did not have chorizo and garlic bread in the soup on the menu.
Oh well, I am sure there will be other tomato ramen opportunities.
Some overpasses made for a good view of the very end of the sunset. The sun sets very early in Japan already. You need to think about that if you are planning on long hiking adventures.
The big mall shown on the area map is 10 minutes walk from the station, Olinas mall. I went in to investigate their ramen free food court.
And finally, my Tomato ramen. The black stuff is egg plant. It was OK, but not as good as I remember. A quick google suggests it is part of a chain, but the one I remember most in Shinjuku is gone. The menu for a couple of the other locations is also not what I remember. Hmmm!
Also, tomorrow is a hiking day.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
山雪 on 2023-10-30 said:
包裹 是 我 最 喜欢 的 百货 商店。
山雪 on 2023-10-30 said:
adriana on 2023-10-30 said:
I agree Hama Rikyu garden is not that spectacular. the tea ceremony is nice in the tea house though and the streets in the area are interesting for fancy European style buildings. It's also called Hama because it used to be on the sea shore before the land in front of it was reclaimed. Hama means beach.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2023-10-28 said:
glad you were able to have such a great flight. Will ours be as good?
David on 2023-10-28 said:
Actually the domestic terminal was a hive of activity with a lot more shops and eating places than I was expecting, I will be there for a few hours on my way back
Mountain snowy on 2023-10-28 said:
Cairns airport bu hao