Uto Peninsula from Ishiuchi-Dam to Uto Station
Today I walked the length of the Uto peninsula. There are a couple of noted very small mountains along the way, Odake and Yudake, but there is almost no view and the mountains are not really the point.
It is a bit of a strange 'hike', you start on an unused road, then a trail, then a very rarely used road, more unused road, more trail, more unused road etc.
A map is probably a good idea as there are a few turns, but there are also signs specifically for people completing the Uto Peninsula traverse.
Now for the stats -
26.76km - sounds impressive but read on
6 hours 36 minutes
38,900 steps
912m vertical ascent
1,477 calories burned
That last number is the interesting one, 2 days ago the volcano in the hail hike burnt more calories in under 5 hours.
Photos today are a bit bland due to no view and when there was, smoke.

Here is Ishiuchi-Dam station. There are direct trains from Kumamoto station and it is only about 45 minutes away, however despite being a JR line, IC card does not work beyond Uto Station, so buy a paper ticket. There is a toilet at this station, but there is no vending machine.

These are the signs you can follow all day if you wish. I believe there is a trail running event at some point.

This used to be a dam observation building, now abandoned. A lot of what you will see today is abandoned.

There was an area of plastic lined crops under yet more plastic near the dam. They change all the plastic once a week and put it in a big pile and burn it.

This is a semi abandoned road. I will point out at this point that I saw 2 cars all day, 0 hikers, but I did hear some logging activity.

The trail up to the top of Odake was actually steeper than I thought, my hydration requirements were on my mind.

Sections of the trail were bamboo forest. It was a little windy but nothing like yesterday in Kagoshima, the sound of the bamboo smacking into each other can be disconcerting.

This is the section of real road that runs through the middle of the peninsula. This is where a couple of cars came, maybe once every 20 minutes.

Here is a farming village in the middle of the peninsula, and they had a vending machine for me to re-hydrate. I saw no people, but probably had lots of sets of eyes on me from old ladies hiding in the fields. Also, nice solar cells.

This section of trail was filled with signs explaining the local bird life, but I did not see any other hikers today.

I descended down into this village. Uto station is near the right edge of this photo, so it is still a decent walk from here.

And finally after many hours, I arrived back at the gloomy looking Uto station, it is some distance away from the centre of Uto. The bullet train runs through here but does not stop here.
Traverse completed. Today's word of the day, traverse.
Kumamoto bar and entertainment areas
Just a short outing tonight due to a lot of km earlier.
First I saw a bunch of white lights and assumed there was a street full of dentists, but no, the curtains, care bears (?) and 18+ signs everywhere signalled this was the red light district, now with white lights.
There were a lot of interesting looking love hotels, but of course I was there too early for most of the lights to be on.
I then remembered that I had better eat dinner early or go without (or go to a stand up bar and eat stuff off sticks), so I headed up to the top level of an otherwise closed department store. The food floor was mostly still open, but one place was full of a boisterous office party, one had zero customers and the chef was asleep, and that left Din Tai Fung.
As far as Din Tai Fung's go, it was a bit unauthentic, but it was still ok, I think it was Taiwanese food Japanified.

Kumamoto generally appears a bit shabby, here is a good example, the streets all have bits of bitumen where repairs have been half arsed, just like Australia, where anyone can just dig up the street whenever they feel like it, and or draw all over it with various colours of spray paint to indicate where you might want to cut it up, some time in the next 10 years.

Not only have they stolen the name of the once British now Chinese car company, but they have also stolen the font. I think they are selling real estate and or trading cards?

The top floor of the department store was largely open, but still quite sparse, especially compared to the food court I showed last night in the newer style mall.

Din Tai Fung beef noodle and xiao long bao combo, no chilli oil was on offer. Poor photo, there was a very bright but very focused spot light shining on the tea.

The Shotengai area was still doing ok at 8pm, there are a lot of restaurants along here and some were still open.

To find the bar you want to go to in Japanese cities, you have to go into the bar information booth. A lot of bars are on upper floors and have seating for up to 8 people! I think the prices include drinks for a period of time or something like that.
Tomorrow is a rest day, I feel a castle in my future.
Suizenji garden and Kumamoto castle
Today I went to the things most people go to see in Kumamoto, Suizenji Koen and the local partially destroyed by recent earthquake but largely re-created once again re-creation of the Kumamoto castle.
The good news about the garden, $4 entry, and in my opinion, nicer than the $16 garden in Kagoshima.
The garden area is just the tip of an entire network of parks, gardens, zoos, wetlands, lakes and other things I have forgotten, but I did not have time to go looks at them, they are all accessible from the tram.
The castle is $8, and really fake as you shall see, so the interesting thing about it is probably it's fakeness and earthquake damage more so than its castleness. It probably should have been $4 entry too.
There are not really any gardens around the castle either, so spend time looking at the diorama and calligraphy on the inside, or ride the lift up and down a few times.

Suizenji garden/koen has an exit through the gift shop street at it's entry/exit. You can buy a special ice cream, I presume.

The garden shrine provides a Torii gate positioned well to frame the garden, almost as though they did that on purpose.

The castle is right in the centre of town, so a short tram ride back from the garden. Here is its impressive wall and moat.

This walkway is the bulk of the experience, and is newly built after the earthquake while they repair the walls.

This is interesting, the entire castle is resting on hydraulic springs. I presume they lifted it up to install these recently.

There are 4 levels to explore, the diorama is always the best, because it shows you what you were just looking at for real 5 minutes ago outside.

View one from the top, and unfortunately Kumamoto has committed the worst of all sins, glass windows, thus partially ruining the view.

View 2 of 2, it was brighter outside than the view through glass would have you believe.
So that is how a tourist should spend a few hours in Kumamoto, or any Japanese city really.
Kumamoto station area
Instead of catching the tram to the main station area, I walked along the tram tracks. This probably annoyed the tram drivers.
The journey on foot takes about 30 minutes, I feel that with the old trams it takes about 20 minutes, and you are trapped on board with 80 or so people with terminal sneezing. So my top tip is, walk.
Even better, to go between the main station and the city centre, you can also follow the drain, and we all know how much I love a drain.
As for the main station area, it is just the station and the one shopping building attached to it. The surrounding streets have nothing of interest, other than the drain. So you better like what is on offer to eat in the station itself. You can get the usual choices of rice or noodle based things, but can you get something that contains neither?

I have no idea what this grey monolithic building is, a similar windowless building in central Melbourne is a water pump.

After no more than a 30 minute walk, here is the Kumamato station area, although you cannot see the actual station in this shot, but stay tuned.

IC cards (suica, icoca etc.) are being phased out in favour of tap to pay credit cards in a few parts of Japan, this works fine for me, I have an international fee free credit card, but I am not sure how well that works if you do not, I read that Americans seem to have a lot of issues, as tap to pay is not even a thing there yet? You can also use apple pay on an iphone, but no android pay unless the phone was made for the Japanese market specifically, because... Japan and it's many hoops to jump through for extra convenience.

Here is my dinner which contains neither rice or noodles, hamburg steak. There was a whole story involved on a giant sheet of paper. The meal was ok, I was most interested in the baked potato. As a general rule, any meal that involves a giant piece of paper explaining how good it is, is probably not worth the effort.

The adjoining multi level shopping building was very nice, lots of little stores, but also a common eating area in the middle of them to eat the cakes and whatever you just bought.

One of the above photos had an overpass, and I was waiting for it to be time for me to go up the overpass, the time has arrived. Station on the right, multi level shopping centre on the left.

I walked back along the local drain. Here is the view looking back in the direction of Kumamoto station.

And finally, once I got back to this very wide Shotengai, I knew I was back at my hotel.
Tomorrow is a hiking day, it is going to be hot too!
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
adriana on 2025-04-17 said:
Hate if when the station is far from the city centre.
Mount Kinbo from Kamikumamoto station
There are not a lot of mountains near Kumamoto. Most people go to Mount Aso, which is the very active volcano, however there is almost no hiking allowed, it is often closed if the wind is blowing in the wrong direction, and it is best visited by car as most public transport options no longer exist.
Instead I decided to plot a long couse up the very close and not very high Mount Kinbo.
If you research this mountain, you will see that it is known as either Kinbozan (with a z) or Kinpozan, but you will mainly find that the 1887 Kinbozan earthquake was named after it. This was an unusual earthquake that occurred due to a failed volcanic eruption of Mount Kinbo.
And on that note, time for the stats -
32k steps
20.45km - mix of trail and road today
770m vertical ascent
1,298 calories burned - it was hot on the way down
5 hours 47 minutes
So a bit longer than I expected.

My hike started at the last tram stop on the blue line, which is also Kamikumamoto train station. Convenience stores nearby. It was raining, which was unexpected.

It was not raining enough for me to get wet, but it did make for dark shots for a while, here is the first of a few staircases.

I think this one is really old as it seems to be fully closed off, with a newer much less interesting shrine in front of it.

Behind the statue, a real trail, and it was hard to follow, I needed to use yamap - this hike is not on alltrails at all.

I actually took a wrong turn off the trail into some fruit trees for a bonus view, then doubled back to what they are calling a trail.

There is also a road to the top, so there is a shrine and plenty of vending machines. The cafe was closed however, possibly permanently.

The road to the top means that there are a few mini buses full of old folks from a nursing home, who are here to wait and see what happens for a while. They were generally just talking shit about me.

I could not find anywhere to do the proper stance, so this is the best I can manage. Nice man boobs (is it manboobs or man boobs?).

I decided to go down a different way, which had more roads, but was longer. There is Mount Kinbo, and it's many tv antennas.

My journey down took me through some terraced farming areas, generally with a bunch of fancy graves around them.

There are a few open gardens dotted along the road, they are nothing special, this is the best one I saw, perhaps it has nice blossoms and leaves at the right time of year.

Looking back at the way I had come. That is the first convenience store option on my descent, the rare Daily Yamazaki. I did not go in.
Another lap of Kumamoto city centre
Last night in Kumamoto, I decided to celebrate by having Korean food.
People with developed attention spans may remember about 10 days ago I had bibimbap in Hong Kong. It was a large filling serve, but bland. Tonight I decided to have the same in Japan, to give me words to fill this area of this webpage with. The Japanese have defeated the Hong Kongese at bibimbap.
In other news, the bar areas were doing great business on a Friday night, I saw a lot of really bad driving which strongly suggested people had already been at the bars for a while. Random swerving in lane ways that are already not wide enough for cars, and are full of pedestrians is a bad recipe.
Tomorrow I go to Fukuoka, I have been there before, twice. It is a comparatively much larger city.

For no known reason, a lot of Kumamoto streets are named after American cities. It is unclear if this is the official street name or not.

Unfortunately it is not possible due to tight streets to get a full photo of the exterior of this place, it is like a large rusty observatory with giant sliding metal doors.

The inside of it has a cake shop, a florist, and not much else. Very strange. The staircases seemingly go to nowhere.

I had observed this shop front a couple of times from over the road. It is kind of on it's own away from any other shops, so I went over to investigate. Inside is a lot of tiny little eating places, all selling things on sticks.

And here is my bibimbap. Very good quality.
The train journey to Fukuoka tomorrow takes 45 minutes. I will be too early to check in when I get there.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
David on 2025-04-18 said:
There are no bears other than the famous kumamon bear mascot they use everywhere that was invented when the shinkansen arrived in Kumamoto
They want to reintroduce the bears apparently
They are also basically extinct on Shikoku, less than twenty left
mother on 2025-04-18 said:
Kumamoto kanji means origin of the bear. but no bears in Kyushu?
The end for now
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2025-04-16 said:
The shabbiness of the streets etc could be due to the earthquake a couple of years ago. I wonder if the castle has been completely restored yet?
jenny on 2025-04-16 said:
nice bamboo