As mentioned on the previous page, today involved multiple modes of transport to go from Osaka to Taichung in Taiwan.
I wont bore myself by recounting the intricate details, the photos are boring enough.
I will however mention that the fast train from Osaka to the airport in the sea is infuriating, I could have walked faster, we stopped multiple times in the middle of nowhere.
It made it in the scheduled time of 75 minutes, but seriously it goes on a freight line and must wait for freight trains, its slower than the slowest of all local trains stopping all stations.
My non Malaysia airlines Boeing 777 flight was fine, very spacious 9 across seating in economy, I turned down the food. The flight was 3 hours, longer than I thought due to a timezone change between Japan and Taiwan.
Immediately upon arriving in Taiwan, apart from the new airport terminal, you notice people are a lot happier looking, smiling, messing about, joking with each other, even the airport officials.
Japan is polite to a fault, people dare not be seen to be doing anything other than their specific job. Unless you go from one to the other suddenly its a hard thing to describe.
Taichung itself, is unexplored as my hotel is right by the station, the hotel is awesome but I will talk about that later.
What I did see is smog, but a very interesting looking city area. I know very little about this city comparatively speaking.
I had remaining yen to burn. Starbucks is expensive, so it won out over the various local brands. Top tip, dont enter the departure area of Osaka Kansai airport too early! Its much more interesting before customs.
This is literally all there is after customs, and even this is only fleeting, as you are put into a shuttle truck train thing on guided tyres to a long corridor with public toilets.
The Cathay Pacific lounge is still about as impressive as Karrathas Qantas lounge, only less food. They had cups with packets of noodles and a water boiler.
On my 4th visit to Taoyuan airport near Taipei, and they have finished the new terminal building! I wandered about to buy a sim card and find an ATM, its very nice, huge food court. I will be back early when I leave in 9 days to fully explore.
Yes I am that much of an airport nerd.
Next we go on a bus to the high speed rail. The entire aisle is filled with peoples bags. In the event of fire, everyone dies.
Its me on the high speed rail, in a non black t-shirt, a rarity. This rail unlike Osaka really is high speed, it goes to 305kmph and stays there until the next station.
The view of Taichung in the distance from the station is smog filled. I still have another train to catch!
The regular station seems to be a museum of sorts to Taiwanese railway. I will probably spend more time looking at that later also, because I also like trains, and planes, and automobiles.
The station for the regular train was old and confusing. The LED signs dont work, it seems to be an old platform reopened while they rebuild the new one.
After about 10 minutes this blue train came, I got on it. Had no idea if it was going where I wanted. Luckily I can read Taizhong central station in Chinese and knew thats the third stop. The inside of this train is very nice and modern with tv's giving lots of info.
And this is the view once I have arrived downtown. My hotel is about 50 metres behind me, a convenient underpass takes me from the station entry to the hotel front door.
The hotel is the City Inn Plus, and for $45 a night you get a modern big room, free minibar (soft drinks, chocolate), ridiculously fast internet, free breakfast, theres a lounge with a barista, and free on demand movies of which there are thousands. I suspect its a NAS and someones bittorrent collection.
Doing no research on where you are other than knowing how to get to your hotel, then setting out on foot in no particular direction in the dark, can lead you on some real adventures.
I am not entirely sure where the main part of the city is, perhaps there is none! I found streets full of hardware stores, scooter shops, LED lighting, books, anime, cameras, and pop up markets full of things deep fried on sticks, but what I didnt find was any proper restaurants, parks, nice areas generally with modern looking stores.
Now, Taipei has areas like this too, but every mile or so you come to a new area of ultra modern cleanliness, I didnt really find any yet!
Springing up out of a construction site for the Bus Rapid Transit (effectively a bus lane up the middle of the road), is a massive Sogo store, its here where I ate.
The problem is I got there right on closing, so choices were limited, as you will see. I really just wanted somewhere to sit down for 20 minutes!
As the night went on, I think some of the smog went away, because in the distance, perhaps nearer where I had been, or started from, I could see some big modern looking buildings, but as of right now, I dont know how to get to them.
I did see lots of massively uneven footpaths, every store maintains their own, its dangerous, much of it is polished marble tiles which they then spray with a hose every 3 minutes.
I saw more scooters than I have ever seen, and tasted them too, they are all still 2 stroke petrol motors. Mainland China has banned them and replaced with electric only.
I also saw a huge number of bakeries, in every sort of street, these were very modern and all had tables and chairs and many had waitresses to take your order. But I didnt really think cake was appropriate for dinner.
I also saw a lot of dogs just wandering about, a sure sign you are in the shitty part of town.
Now I have seen on google images and whatever, lots of photos of nice areas of Taichung, so I know they exist!
Despite the relative filth (coming from Japan), you still get the whole community thing going on, with markets popping up everywhere, dancing, card games in the middle of the road, rollerblading lessons, dog dress up parade, break dancing, do your homework at the bus stop with a tutor etc.
Photos arent anything special, just snapped a few times whilst wandering for 4 hours.
These markets are literally, in the road. The road is not blocked off. People just wheel more and more crap out into the road and expect pedestrians and buses to play nice.
A random brightly lit street with no restaurants. In Taiwan, pedestrian crossings do not mean cross the road, they mean cross the road when nothings coming, cars and scooters just ignore them.
More scooters than the eye can see. At least here they left a path for pedestrians, often the entire footpath is taken up by parked scooters and you must walk on the road in the traffic.
As dangerous as this sounds, you just have to place faith in oncoming traffic to swerve to avoid you, like they do everyone else, most of the time.
There are many tiny little unattended shops like this, with these amusement games where you try and get something out of the glass case. I mean I saw 50 such places, all without a single customer.
Every neighbourhood has its own temple of some description. Usually with Neon, often with people playing the lottery, perhaps they take their scratchie lotto tickets to the temple for good luck.
So I ended up with Japanese Omurice. Boring. But $2.
Unfortunately it came with all the fishy tasting things on it and in it and with it. These things taste better than they smell.
I have found the newer part of Taichung. It is about 8km away from what is called central Taichung, soon to be renamed Taichung old city, in an area called Xitun.
It has a few department stores and cinemas, and nearby is the enormous night market which I have yet to see, hopefully its more like the Taiwan ones, on dedicated closed off streets, rather than playing chicken with buses.
On the subject of buses, I had to take one to get to Xitun, cause I didnt know where it was, and its hot here, so I decided it might be best to not walk in blind hope of finding a destination.
This proved difficult, but I now know they take Taipei metro IC cards, of which I already have one, so there wont be a repeat of this morning.
I get on the bus and try to pay cash, its not a fixed fare, you are supposed to tell the driver where you are going.....I dont know.
I tried to explain that I would happily pay the maximum fare and just get off whereever I felt like. A couple of Nannas came to my rescue, and started rattling off names of possible destinations in English. I picked the city hall. They were so happy to be of assistance. This fare cost about 20 cents...
The signs on the bus actually update based on GPS and show you in English, I followed along on my GPS and sure enough City hall is in the new part of the city.
There are footpaths. There are over and underpasses to cross the road safely, there are restaurants, lots of cafes, parks and trees, and a lot of construction.
Theres also museums, since it felt like its about 40 degrees even though its only 25, I thought I would visit one of them, for the princely sum of 30 cents.
A typical Taichung street, out the front of my hotel. The hotel breakfast was interesting, the breakfast room is like a space station, and then the meals on offer are strange even for China/Taiwan. Yes you can have toast or cereal or even scrambled eggs, but there were a whole heap of strange combinations served in those little paper cup cake things.
Combinations like salami, raisins and egg salad. Or smoked salmon, tofu and salsa. Perhaps corn, preserved sausage and mashed potato.
Nobody seemed to be eating them. I think the hotel thinks they are very cool and are trying to invent new taste sensations.
This is the walkway to the natural science museum. It has marble dinosaur inlays. There really arent many trees in Taichung! This few hundred metres of greenery is listed as a top tourist spot to experience nature in the city.
The nature being of the inlayed in concrete variety as opposed to the deer in the main streets of Nara in Japan.
This is the natural science museum. It looks crap in photos, but its enormous and very high quality.
Lots of walkways are clear glass with projections under foot that change as you step on them.
There are 5 or 6 different interlinked buildigs, each with various exhibits, many interactive.
Theres at least 30 interactive stations where you can control microscopes or cameras such as this. The microscopes were great but hard to photograph. They seem to have an electron microscope hooked up to a projector showing cells on something.
I dont know what this is. There was also a water powered clock, and a section on Oceania below everything else with no one at all bothering to go down there.
Now heres a great job! You sit in a glass cube, stuffing and posing dead animals to be put on display whilst hundreds of people look at you and take flash photography.
The dinosaur exhibit was most popular with the many school groups. Theres also dinosaurs outside in the gardens. I snuck this sneaky photo of one of the color coordinated school groups charging around at top raspberry cordial speed.
Herding them all together for a photo was an impressive demonstration of whistle blowing.
Note they all have matching water bottles, I remember at the Taipei zoo years ago they also had matching hats, backpacks, torches and their own whistles. Basically an earthquake survival kit.
They also had a confronting exhibit on death, including the executed criminals that were finely sliced into thousands of pieces. But I enjoyed this cryogenic tank, one for whole body, one for head only. Which would you choose?
Across the road is the botanic gardens. My 30 cents also gets me in here, and damn it I need to get some value for my large outlay.
This is pretty much the entire garden in this shot.
However they manage to keep their biodome thing going, unlike Adelaide whos bicentennial conservatory gift to the people is now turned off, with some of the glass removed, so that everything inside can die.
Next up is the local temple, which this morning is staging some sort of karaoke contest for elderly stroke victims. I dont know but it sounded terrible, so bad that I made a video. Weird that they would have such huge P.A. systems to broadcast their terrible unaccomponied groaning across the city.
This is the new city hall. It is absolutely enormous, and so very Chinese. I will need to go back and do a proper exploration, as I think theres 4 sides to it and an open square in the middle.
They have wisely left room to drive tanks into the square in case of a student uprising.
Heres a few of the department stores. Unlike the rest of Asia, China (and Taiwan which is more or less China) still leaves theirs unintegrated and stand alone. Each one tries to entrap you inside so you cant easily walk underground or across outside walkways linking them.
These 3 buildings in a row all feature about 10 floors of clothing, 2 basement floors of supermarket, 2 floors of restaurants near the top, and a cinema on the top floor.
It can take you about 30 minutes to get out of them if you go up to the top, they stop you from taking the stairs and I swear the lifts only go up.
The escalators are then arranged in such a way its very easy to go up, but to go down requires you to cross from one side of the floor to the other.
This is looking back towards where I had come from. I believe this street is one of only 2 main boulevardes through Taichung, that have proper footpaths and signage and underpasses at busy intersections.
On floor 16 of Top City, and they have decided to make it mini Japan town, again. I dont want anymore Japanese food!
Instead I had steak on top of noodles with an egg and vegetables and a bonus salad. I better find some proper beef noodle soup soon!
Heres the smog laden view from the cinema lobby on the top floor of one of the inescapable department stores.
Tonight I went to what might be the worlds biggest night market, Fengjia, had a huge multicourse tea flavoured dinner, and took some boring photos.
Bigger news though, is that the Taiwan parliament has been overtaken by students, who are upset that the KMT (the same people that fled China to start Taiwan), have become too close with the mainland and have passed legislation to allow mainland investors to own more of Taiwan.
At least I think thats whats going on, Taiwan is doing a Ukraine / Syria / Egypt.
The vast majority of people voted in the KMT and prefer the status quo situation where they are formerly part of China but China leaves them alone.
The students want the constituion changed to declare full independence.
So I will be in Taipei soon, and will join the anti protestor protest! Just like what happened in the Ukraine.
Taiwans parliament has a history of 200 person kung fu fights, including men roundhousing women to the face and vice versa (check on youtube), but this is the first time its been occupied.
Earlier today before knowing about this news, I made a joke about the city hall leaving room for tanks to drive in to end a student uprising!
The Taiwan situation isnt newsworthy in any Australian news source I saw, at least not on the front page.
Let me remind you, the origial Ukraine protestors were concerned the president was too friendly with Russia. So they threw him the hell out, no election, no nothing.
Then the majority of people in whats now being called Crimea got nervous, really nervous, so they protested too.
Eventually they just decided to start their own country and rejoin Russia.
But remember, the Crimeans didnt start the protests or throw out the democratically elected president!
The same thing is happening in Thailand for many years, red vs blue.
Democracy working well.
Enough of my world political views, onto the boring photos.
Heading to find the bus, I couldnt resist a coconut Obun. Crispier outside than the ones in Adelaide, perhaps because they use some kind of oil spray that causes cancer.
One of many open drains in Taichung. They try and disguise them as parks, but they smell! I see random pipes of mystery liquid running into them.
Fengjia night market. I had read a website written by a German who was worried he would be trampled to death here. He was genuinely scared. Its not so busy tonight.
The new taste sensation is, a block of frozen beef, part burnt with a blow torch, served in a paper bag.
More random streets around the night market. It was a cool place, it borders the biggest university, and caters for that crowd. However there were also lots of sit down restaurants on the streets nearby.
I selected a place for dinner called Cha for Tea, for those that dont know, Cha means Tea in Chinese.
Anyway, I ordered 2 things, and was told no. I have to pick from a, b, c, and d, and then get a matching tea with each course.
I suggested this was too much money, I just want the 300NT ($10) thing I pointed at.
It was then explained to me that the deal described was $10.
So first up, and the pictures dont do it justice, some shredded celery and other things with a sesame and pureh tea sauce, and a wonton and green tea soup thing. Served with honey tea in a shot glass.
Next up is my entree and main, tofu in some kind of tea which was perhaps the highlight, so flavoursome! And stewed beef in some kind of tea soup.
I ate my dessert before photo, but it was a slice of cake with tea flavoured icing. The tea here though, in the little pot, was really delicious.
I think its brewed in the pot with the milk, but it tasted somehow different, a kind of malty flavour.
Thats enough about my awesome dinner. Taiwan cuisine > everything.
Walking back to the main bus road, and I found some new residential buildings. They are quite dark and mysterious.
Last one features me.
What you cant see is below me. I thought it was a hole for a building site as I walked past the other side.
Turns out its a big park with multiple levels of boardwalks, cafes and bizzarre LED lights suspended from trees. There were lots of people down there drinking bubble tea.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
mother on 2014-03-19 said:
You'll be able to walk around the whole island in 9 days!
mother on 2014-03-19 said:
?cool photos. Why so hot?
So today I climbed yet another mountain, or series of mountains, I cant be sure. I ended up in a dehydrated state of delirium by the end of it, which was fantastic.
The place is called Dakeng, and theres a number of different paths here in 2 different areas, I went up the hard areas of course, and later found out I went up the unmaintained path, and then down a higher quality yet still dangerous path, at least in my opinion.
The danger here isnt falling over a cliff, theres very little chance of that, pretty much the entire journey is on raised pine log ladders, with gaps between each log.
What this means is you have to watch carefully where every foot goes, or you will miss and fall through the gap. I did this only once, that was enough.
Theres also parts of the ladder log system with broken or missing logs. Many of the logs are worn to the point where you question if they will break when you step on them. And then theres parts where theres multiple replacement frames of logs stacked on top of each other, as older ones have snapped or been washed away.
There are a lot of ropes to hang onto as well, when they dont snap. This happened!
Also there some parts where the log ladder has been deemed about to slide down a cliff, so you have to haul yourself around it on temporary ropes.
Anyway, to get there I had to take a bus that doesnt come often. A little old man decided that was a good time to practice his English he learnt in University many years ago. He was pretty good still, so then I practiced Chinese on him which he found amusing.
He had many top tips for places to visit, when I told him I planned to walk up over and down the various peaks of Dakeng, he changed his recommendations to things more interesting.
My top tip if you want to do this one day, bring water. By the end of it, some 5 hours without water, I still felt fine, but on a hot day that could be a different story. I realised how thirsty I must have been only when I started drinking once I had finished.
The bus I took goes nowhere near the start of the trail, I had to hike up little laneways up the mountain, poorly signposted. Probably 5km!
There is a minibus that drives a circle route, but it doesnt come often, so I just walked.
It was nice, but some better signs would be good!
I went past some very rural Chinese looking housing estates such as this. Gated compounds with guards. A long way from any kind of shop.
The walk to the start of the climb also went past various farming areas.
People going past me on scooters stopped to look at me from a safe distance, yes I was lost, but I didnt care. I knew how to re trace my steps if I decided I was too lost.
Eventually I got to this map. It even has an English you are here. Except even this was frustrating, the start of the trail was not where the map is, it was a few hundred metres up the road.
Before knowing that, I walked the perimeter of the car park where the map is twice looking for where the hell I should be.
And then apparently this is what I came here for. A bitumen road with scooters on it, littered with rubbish.
After an uninspiring 20 minutes or so I got to this. And was excited. I thought this ladder thing would be used on and off where needed.
No, 95% of the entire walk, at least 3 hours, is this. It was hard work walking over this! Takes full concentration as described above.
Somewhere about half way up the route I took up to the ridge. A shame about the smog. I suspect the smog is permanent.
Part of the pine log ladder being replaced. The work team had water. I should have asked them for some!
Actually there were big plastic bottles of water left along the path, but I wasnt about to drink that unless I seriously was worried about dying. Who knows where it came from.
Across to one of the other ridges. It seems the far side of the mountain is less dramatically steep, with some kind of track and a few shelters.
This is one of the sections where the path was too dangerous to use. So instead you lower yourself on ropes and around it, in the jungle.
I knew I was heading down, but I elected to choose a different track down. Good plan as it was better maintained, although still log ladder.
The only issue is I didnt know exactly where it went down to.
After an exhausting adventure, I made it to a swing bridge to freedom.
There were a few people at the top, but I suspect they came up from the other side. I only passed 4 people going up or down in the many hours I was climbing on ladders.
However, being off the trail and back on roads doesnt mean I am back on a bus yet.
First I passed a number of abandoned looking camping grounds, including this scout one.
My dream of a vending machine didnt materialize.
There were some public toilets with taps, but you arent supposed to drink Taiwan tap water!
The scout camp centre had a big hall thing, with painted murals of naked children frolicing with tigers, which was a little concerning. I couldnt get a decent photo through the window and some gardner guy was watching me from afar.
The mini bus came past as I was wandering back towards the village. Good timing. Once I got back to the village I raced into the Family Mart for pocari sweat, the best apple I ever ate, pre cut to be man friendly, and some Hello Panda.
I then bought a second drink.
Finally back on a regular bus back to Taichung. The mountain village has these paper windmills everywhere. Its a clue as to where to get off if you ever catch bus 1, 21 or 31 out of Taichung in hope of finding Dakeng.
I was tired from todays ladder climbing, so crap photos of nothing, get lost.
I did see the waitresses at Cold Stone Creamery, with a tambourine, doing an actual song and dance to no customers when the alarm on their countdown timer went off. How embarassing.
I saw a dog get beaten up by a cat, something I have seen before in an Asian city.
I saw a bus drive around a blind corner on the wrong side of the road and send a heap of scooters flying into the gutter running into each other, they just drove off as if nothing had happened as they untangled themselves from each other, parked scooters, pot plants.
I saw a homeless person with a gas mask thing like the Japanese have, and a tube of hand sanitizer which he used before eating the garbage he had scavanged.
I saw someone wearing what looked like Google glass with 5 people staring at his face and taking photos.
And finally I saw a speed boat go across the road in the traffic. I am sure it had wheels, but I didnt see any. It had no ads on it or unusual lights. Just some dude driving home in his converted speed boat.
My hotel is at the rear of the station. Until now I have always gone in front of the station. This mall is one street back.
It is very weird, it has this huge indoor atrium, yet the shops that go 15 floors up are very tiny. The atrium is much bigger than the floor space of the shops.
Theres little more than a corridor on each level with a couple of stools and a bench.
Under the mall though is this large food court, and for 2 levels under that is a 24 hours Carrefour mega supermarket thing.
My foodcourt dinner. I think its Thai food, I dont know! The ingredients suggest so, the flavours do not. However the lady that served me yelled at the chef, in Chinese, American, very small chilli.
I recognised this, and screamed at her in Chinese, VERY BIG CHILLI!
She was very embarassed, but also laughing, and then also screamed VERY VERY BIG CHILLI! at the chef.
I think theres 7 shops in this photo, 6 of them are bubble tea shops. I have no idea how they all stay in business.
This is your typical Taiwanese restaurant.
It is largely outdoors, the seating is where the footpath is for the stores surrounding it, making everyone walk on the road into traffic to get past.
This one has the kitchen in that area, but many have indoor/outdoor seating behind plastic blinds, and the kitchen on the footpath, with portable gas bottles and a trolley with burners.
Presumably this stops their indoor area filling with smoke.
Meet Fresh Taiwan, in Taiwan.
Unfortunately the waitress who took my order assumed I would take away, despite me sitting at a table. Or maybe she didnt want me at a table. Regardless, I sat in the store and ate my red bean soup with various taro and sweet potato balls, and drank my sickly QQ whatever tea.
There is a meet fresh on Hindley street in Adelaide now, if you want to sample Taiwanese dessert.
It might not be there for long, its in the wrong area and gets very little patronage.
Adelaide people can try Dessert story on Gouger street if you can get in. Its the same concept.
There are currently 1 comments - click to add
mother on 2014-03-20 said:
Why would any sane person go hiking without water?? You are losing your mind! Also miles of swinging logs to walk on - are you doing penance for some kind of serious sin? just get a hair shirt and beat yourself.
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David on 2014-03-19 said:
Yes, 9 days, but I go to Taipei on Saturday.
As for dirtier than Hong Kong, thats hard to say.
Hong Kong certainly has a bigger contrast between dirty and old, and shiny and new.
Taichungs old parts arent dirty as much as they are disorganized chaos.
adriana on 2014-03-19 said:
dirtier or cleaner than HK?
mother on 2014-03-18 said:
9 days in Taiwan?