Heading to the Shanghai Botanic gardens on the subway
Today I went to the Shanghai Botanic Gardens. It seems every Chinese city has a huge botanical research facility, Shanghai is no exception. This could be great, or it could be a sea of debris where a garden once was or might one day be, its hard to tell unless you go, todays garden exceeded all expectations.
The photoshopped rendered pictures of the garden show it built on an old quarry, I could not find any signs of this quarry, but there are huge brand new areas of formal Chinese garden with bonsai etc. and a few areas fenced off for future expansion. I suspect they leveled the quarry.
I have been to the humble servants garden or whatever it is called in Suzhou, I actually think the new part of the Shanghai botanic gardens is nicer.
Getting to this garden is very easy, the subway now goes there, the subway goes everywhere in Shanghai, it is very convenient. It is almost as if they have constructed the subway to take people where they want to go.
I originally thought I might spend an hour or so in the garden chasing butterflies and flying a kite, but I ended up spending over 3 hours studying all the various areas in detail, and I did not see all of it.
I was also a little too late, a few days ago the international flower festival of amazing flowers for the presentation at a flower festival of floral arrangements and associated flowers ended. The actual competing exhibits were fenced off and half dead, but there were many windmills and also a lot of flowers.
Thats not to say there still were not a lot of flowers to look at, as you shall see. Flowers, yeah.
I got off the subway at Shilong road, which is an elevated monorail, one stop before the Shanghai South main station. It was not an inspiring area, but there was a family mart. At this stage I thought the garden might be a debris field, I was having flashbacks to a previous visit to Shanghai when I traveled a great distance to go to the aircraft museum, only to find it had been removed 3 years prior.
The entrance area was about what I expected, ok but nothing special. Still grey skies at this point, but that would change as the day went on.
Things started to look a bit better once I got past the entrance annex development staging, ticket check and bomb scanning area.
And then I went into one of the pay to enter areas, I had bought a combo ticket that gets me into all of them, and it was amazing.
Nice creek and bridge and hut on bridge and real wooden railing. Generally what looks like wooden railing is made from recycled plastic. Not this time.
A view from the top, the garden was lots of individual walled off areas linked by circular arches in the wall.
I just showed a heap of photos of a brand new area of the garden, here is what its replacing. Kind of awesome! So dusty and falling down. I dont think this area was supposed to be accessed by the public. I swam up the creek under a bridge.
Here is another of the pay areas with a tea house. The garden had 3 pay areas and they were very quiet compared to the rest of the place. The combo ticket cost about $8 to get you into everything. In China everything has an entry fee, its the only way to keep the people out of the peoples park.
There are a few rides for children, but if you are very lucky you can get a little fishing rod and try and hook a gold fish.
Here is the tropical conservatory, Adelaide (my old home town) has one of these, it was built to celebrate the 150th birthday of Adelaide. It is highly amusing that since then, Adelaide can no longer afford to operate its gift to itself, so now its semi abandoned and falling apart.
Also a single dog guards the entrance here. He did not like me.
The inside was indeed very tropical, I wished they would turn on the misting system so I could cool off and contract legionaries disease. The sun was out by now.
Like all such facilities, you can climb up some stairs and look down on the tropical trees and throw things at the monkeys.
That is all real trees and plants, although they have potted little orchids inside the branches of the trees.
There was a second smaller bonus conservatory, as well as these colorful flowers it had a cactus section, but they were all in glass boxes making photos difficult. Inside this garden there is also a herb garden that only scientific researchers can access by appointment, it looked huge.
You can rent row boats if you want, no one was. There are probably 20 or so bridges like this throughout the garden.
This is the rose garden area, I thought I would mention that in case you have never seen roses before. It was also impressively large, but I think we are just past the peak of the season. Let me consult the star charts, yeah, 3 weeks past peak.
If you run really fast you can travel over this pond on the lilies. In that little building on the other side, a huge group of old people were singing songs about the fallen ideological martyr of the great seventh assembly of the boisterous referendum for the historical society of the sacred brass tulip.
After fleeing the garden and boarding the subway back to the city centre, I got off a couple of stops early to explore tourist spending zone, Xintiandi. A sandwich here is $20. The place was full of French and German tourists, all thrilled to pay $20 for a sandwich.
I think at most places foreign tourists outnumbered people that looked Chinese. It is a nice area, made to look like its old even though its new. I think it gets bigger each time I visit Shanghai. Most of the big western brand hotels are near here. Wolfgang Puck, Gordon Ramsay etc etc all have restaurants along here.
I was starving, so wandered away from Xintaindi far enough to afford lunch. Even though I had wandered away from the central tourist fleecing area, I still got deconstructed noodles!
I took a wider shot here of my vomit colored soup with submerged rice noodles and bowl of things to pour into it so you can see the barcodes.
There is no way to order here unless you have a Chinese social media app that works with Q-codes. Each table has a barcode, you point your phone at it, the menu comes up on your phone, you select what you want and you pay via that apps payment system.
They really did not want me as a customer, but a person who I think was the owner came out, used her phone, did the barcode routine and then I paid her cash. That was of course after we did the 'no! too spicy!!!' routine....
The noodles were actually delicious!
The ever changing architecture of Pudong
I went over to the new side of Shanghai, known as Pudong, to take photos of the old side of Shanghai, known as Puxi, more commonly known as 'the bund', which is the name of the waterfront area.
Instead I took a lot more photos of the new side and its modern buildings, with my wide angle zoomless camera they made for much better photos.
Over on this side of Shanghai is lots of white businessmen, lots of very expensive malls, lots of very very expensive viewing decks on the tops of tall buildings. To give you an idea, the cost to go up the worlds second tallest building, over $50 AUD. So I would not be doing that. No one else was either, despite the AMAZINGLY CLEAR BLUE SKY, no one was lined up to go up at dusk.
The inside of that building is a bit weird, the bendy outside is just a skin, the core (habitable part) is really quite narrow. Seems like a huge waste of expensive real estate. I dont know if its full or not because you cant go inside, to go to the viewing deck you have to go 2 levels underground.
Everything I wrote above is poorly worded and confusing, I dont care.
I did splurge on an expensive dinner, I paid just over $10! Shocking I know. It was way too much food as you will see. I only ate about half of it but the people next to me ordered about 5 times as much food between 2 people and ate one mouthful from each of the 10 things they ordered and left.
On the way back I watched a guys phone over his shoulder on the subway, and he was watching an amazing amateur video of the police shutting down what I guess was an illegal food night market in the street. They just smashed absolutely everything, tables, chairs, plates, pushing over the food carts, flinging saucepans like frisbees. All while a combination of terrified and amused diners, passers by and food stall owners ran away filming. It looked like great fun, ruining peoples illegal businesses to improve social harmony through chaotic state sanctioned violence.
Near my hotel there are a few different specialist goods streets. Musical instruments, books, trophies, curtains and stationery. Here we have a cat who owns a fancy stationery shop. He greets everyone who comes inside, then flops about on the tiles.
I was so amazed at the blue sky I thought I had better snap a photo as I boarded the subway to head to the other side, just in case it had disappeared by the time I came back above ground.
Now we start the series of boring photos of modern buildings. This one is not really that modern, but I have not seen it with such clear skies before.
The walkway across there, I am also standing on it, it is a giant circle for viewing big buildings, and the central garden and passing traffic.
The worlds second tallest building, now called the drain pipe, flanked by smaller neighbours in the foreground.
I have had the Chinese business news tv on, and found the stock market report confusing. China thinks red is good, green is bad. The exact opposite of how its reported in the white person countries. Red is the most harmonious of colors.
Here we have all 3 together, the one on the right is substantially taller, despite appearances in this photo.
It is easy to ignore all the other buildings, I guess most people would ignore all buildings because building photos are boring. I liked them because of the nice light and clear skies. I am very easily amused.
Here is my extensive and expensive dinner. Hot and sour noodle soup and some very delicious wontons. I think my dinner was vegetarian. Often it is hard to tell.
Exploring all the free parks in Shanghai
Today I visited every single park, garden, temple, shrine, square, reserve and backyard in the greater Shanghai area, on foot.
As you will see, Shanghai has lots of green public spaces, many of them free, some with an admission fee.
I had been to some of these places before, the two main attractions I had been around but not into before due to the admission fees, today I paid the fees.
On my long journey I saw lots of people from every part of the world, so many German men carrying a VHS camcorder. So many Russian men wearing slip on leather shoes and Adidas tracksuit pants. So many young French people smoking and complaining. I will never understand the huge tour group concept, it seems like the worst thing in the world. I would rather not go.
My last stop of the day was a notorious tourist souvenir selling zone, Yuyuan, often called Yuyuan garden but should be called Yu garden since yuan means garden and thats like saying ATM machine.
Anyway, this is the place with the most people trying to sell you watch? bag? phone? what you want to buy? It is also the place with the most police openly retaliating against them! 3 different guys got lead away for harassing me, I dont know what happened to them! They seem to let the women harassing me for exactly the same thing go.
My tactic with them today was to say I already have a watch and a bag and a phone. They would then ask 'what you want?'. My answer varied each time, but was a combination of peace and happiness, a machine gun or a position in the central government.
Lots and lots of photos today so dont expect long detailed amusing descriptions. Here we have a local neighbourhood early in the morning. Terrific blue skies again...terrific!
Garden #1 for the day, the peoples square. No entry fee for the peoples square! The entry is very colorful.
It is a very nice park with lilies and exercising old people, there was a mass group of them doing stretches with accompanying long drawn out deep moans alternating with high pitched sharp screams.
I headed west, this is taken roughly from the hotel I stayed at on previous visits to Shanghai, a very busy part of town.
I soon found myself at the sculpture park. Countries from all around the world have donated sculptures, this one is from Belgium. Why they have donated I could not work out?
This park is still being expanded, I do remember it being here last time I was here but it was a lot smaller then. I dont know which country donated the bulls but they are pretty great.
After leaving the sculpture park, I decided to follow the piles of black hose and see where it took me.
The pile of hoses ended at a picturesque street corner, featuring a sculpture of a human child playing games on his phone resting in the flower bed.
A rubbish fire had broken out in the forecourt amongst the parked luxury cars. I think some people really were burning their entry tickets.
The main Buddha here at the golden temple is not even made of gold. Really crap photo, smoke got in my camera!
Out the back the gold ends and it becomes impressive wooden Buddhist temples. Real monks live here, and dry their Gucci clothes on the balconies.
Over the road from the golden temple is another park, where you can admire a family of petrified rhinoceroses. The grass police blew their whistle at me while I was taking this photo. The grass was nothing special, I didnt think it was a special historically preserved grass covered harmonious area for the peoples preservation of historical grasses.
The grass police guy was following me around now, so I took about 11 minutes to set up and take this photo to tease him. On my way out I peered over a fence into a construction site, he blew his whistle again about 3 feet away from me.
If you get caught stepping on the sacred grass three times you are forced to put on a special yellow idiot suit and balance a stick on your head for 3 months.
I stepped into this phone box to make a call. I wanted to be the first person to use a phone box this century, only to find that its now a library.
My extended journey took me into another trendy shopping area, this is a clothing boutique, that features a pile of dirt in the middle of the shop. Its not under construction, somehow dirt pile is fashion. So fashion!
After another hour or so of walking past expensive shops, I arrived at the special tourist area for selling of souvenirs and arresting of people selling souvenirs known as Yu Garden Garden. These are all souvenir shops, KFC, Starbucks.
This is a Chinese ancient peep show! 10 RMB to stick your eyes over these holes, contract conjunctivitis, and see an ancient silhouette of a concubine doing a fan dance.
I got to this point and realised this was as far as I had got on previous visits. You have to pay to continue beyond this point, today I paid!
At first I was a little disappointed, its a rock garden with a few bonsai, didnt look very impressive.
I believe these are genuinely old, also you can see the new drain pipe building towering above it all!
Probably the nicest place for a photo, that couple sitting on the bridge thought so also. Me and 25 other people waited for ages for them got get out of the way, they never did. They are still there now.
I was again impressed with the trees here, I noted that they wrap the trunks in cloth to discourage growth.
Last photo from yuyuyuanyuangardengarden is the free ear piercing Chinese orchestra display. Why was it so damn loud?
Zhongshan park in Shanghai
Earlier I was wrong. Earlier I said I had visited all the parks in Shanghai. I found another one. NOW I have visited all the parks in Shanghai.
The final park was Zhongshan park.
I used to thing Zhong Shan meant central mountain, and it does. I was wondering why every single Chinese city has a central mountain street / park / suburb / school / public toilet, even when there is no mountain anywhere to be seen such as in Shanghai.
I recently learned that Zhongshan is the name Chinese people have given to Sun Yat-sen, the father of modern China. So if you were to wander around the centre of any Chinese city and ask people where the mountain is while pointing at the street sign, they might thing you are an idiot. Actually they will probably find a young terrofoed girl to talk to you using terrible English, no matter how good you think your Chinese is.
I am running out of things to talk about so its time to talk about Chinese TV! Generally most hotels have only one English channel, CGTN, Chinese Global Television Network. This is a news and propaganda channel available all over the world, I think I even get it as part of my expensive cable tv in Australia. Anyway, today Trump threw out the Iran deal, CGTN is talking about how this is fantastic news, Iran will now have to buy everything from China. Also, Kim Jong-un is in China, again. This is reported as 'Xi Jinping and Kim Jong-un are finalizing wide ranging economic and trade agreements for the future development of the Korean peninsula ahead of a symbolic meeting between Kim and Trump'. Then there are the soy beans. With the possible trade war, China stopped buying soy beans from the USA. Every day CGTN has a story about soy beans from some other part of the world. If I wanted to bet on what other products China might retaliate with should things escalate, I would follow around CGTN reporters to see which farms they are visiting in Argentina, Australia, Namibia, Estonia etc, because I think they are already filming those stories now.
One last thing, China really really hates India. With all the rape murders happening in India, China TV is finding an endless parade of idiotic Hindu government spokesmen to appear on tv and suggest that the girls got what they deserved.
There will be a lot of park pics. Here we have the noise meter. Locals compete to see who can register the loudest noise. The winner by far was a woman cracking a whip.
What is that metal ring around the pond? I thought it was to detect people fishing, or to electrocute the cats. No it is really cheap crappy lighting. Very ugly.
It was a very large, very nice park, being enjoyed by many people, there were lots of joggers and a couple of nice cafes that stay open after dark.
The bottom of the worlds 91st tallest building is a huge mall, which in English is called the cloud 9 mall, but in Chinese its called the Dragons dream shopping centre. No one seems to know why it needed different names for different languages. I had been here before, it is very famous for having over 75 restaurants on its upper levels, all huge, I wrote about it extensively on a previous trip.
Instead of going upstairs, I went to basement 2 and had an excellent ma la dry pot. At this place you select what you want, but you dont select it yourself, the girl loads your bucket for you. A lot of pointing and miming occurred to select my ingredients. She was very concerned I had not selected enough food. It was delicious!
Taking the maglev to Pudong airport
I have ridden on the maglev again, so thats worth an update. I am also precariously close to posting 1000 photos on this trip, at which point the program I have written that presents all this meaningless text and these pointless photos will automatically delete everything, so I have to be really careful!
I am now sitting in Shanghai airport, my plane is not here yet, but I think I just saw it land, its due to depart in an hour.
It is not the worlds best airport, its a bit dated, like Narita in Japan perhaps, but it is very very convenient to get to because of the maglev. 8 minutes on the levitating train and you are at the airport, fantastic.
Many years ago when I first rode the maglev it was free, its now about $10, and runs at a massive loss. Probably worth it to levitate at 450km/h for a few minutes.
Will this be the last update? I dont know yet, depends what time my flight gets into Singapore and how bored I am and how much life there is left in my failing ancient laptop battery.
Until possibly then, heres a few more pics.
Shanghai has an Ishibashi - the famous Japanese guitar store. Better than that they have an annex store selling secondhand stuff. However it is closed and from what I could see, extremely expensive. Top tip, buy guitars in Japan, send to China, sell to rich Chinese, oh yeah thats what Ishibashi is doing.
There was still time to appreciate a ridiculous mini garden. The guy in the foreground is really really appreciating it.
Here is a Chinese bookshop. A truck backs up and pours books out. They must be presented this way by law, in the centre of each pile is a bundle of petrol soaked rags in case an urgent book burning is required.
Since I probably wont post again, heres my thoughts on my trip. China is fascinating, and has progressed a lot since I was last here, everything is cleaner and more convenient. This is probably best highlighted by the public toilets, which are everywhere. I know Xi made a personal request to cities to improve that situation. I certainly remember the last time I was in Chongqing I thought it was still a bit of a wild frontier, its now a modern city.
Every city has huge green areas that are used by the people, which is great to see. Pollution was also not as bad as I expected or remember, which echoes what is being reported by China and foreign organisations that monitor the pollution levels.
Getting places is easy, hotels are all great, no food made me sick in any way, the food was all great.
I had no issues with the internet at all on my phone or laptop, I made sure I had a good vpn and a sim card that directs internet through Australia. I had a few other tricks prepared but never needed them. I was never without phone coverage.
Also, aside from some visa confusion by hotel check in staff, I had no trouble with authorities. Despite stories about police checks, raids, strip searches, drug tests etc. I never experienced any of that. I think you need to be at semi-illegal nightclubs at 3am for that to occur.
Now the negatives.
Getting a cold was annoying. Very annoying, I still have a cough. Yes I could still wander around cities etc. in a semi stupor but it did cancel a few of the longer day trips I had planned to mountains etc. I fear I have lost a lot of my fitness! And on that note, mountains in China are not as good as mountains in Korea / Taiwan / Japan. In China mountains are all concrete paths with steps, signs, toilets, rubbish bins, cable cars, cafes etc. I never really experienced a feeling of isolation which is one of the reasons I like mountains - if you read my other trips you will see me talking about how I saw no one else for hours, that isnt really possible in China unless you go way way way out west on multi day hikes.
So in summary, China is probably a better destination if you want to relax and look at things in cities, go to big tourist attractions, go to museums (theres thousands I didnt go to) and value having a huge hotel room. A good place for old people who can barely walk to get shuttled around to gawk at things.
That went on for longer than expected. My plane is here but is stuck in traffic waiting to find a park. This will make my departure late and reduce my time in Singapore, so this is probably the last update.
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mother on 2018-05-10 said:
thanks for the summary.
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adriana on 2018-05-09 said:
really like 91st tallest building pic with framing greenery
jenny on 2018-05-09 said:
chinese like to do everything loud. This trip has been a sensory or at least visual overload.