The modern malls of Hangzhou
As you shall soon see, it is raining, it is really raining a lot, it is raining so much that I cant even walk around in the street because its all just deep puddles.
Despite my ongoing attempts to completely expel both lungs through coughing fits, I had plans today. I planned to climb some of those hills over the back of the lake. I now wont get to do that. I still get to cough a lot, but I dont get to cough n' climb, just cough n' whine.
Since tomorrow I am going to Shanghai, I now wont ever get to see if you can climb along those hills, I believe you can, I guess I will have to come back again another time, get a cold again, another cold that has now lasted 9 days, hooray.
Can I put a sick leave form in for the days I was sick on my holiday? I used to know someone who did that, he got fired for doing it, true story.
Back to the rain rant, a few times I thought it would stop, only to find it was raining harder, right now out my window I can see a whiter bit of grey sky, but I wont be fooled, its going to rain for the rest of time.
Yes, its raining. I sat and drank two expensive coffees at the expensive cafe thinking it would stop. It didnt.
Instead I scrolled the map and found the furthest mall on the subway line, because what else can I do in the rain? As it turns out, this is the mall I went to last time I was here, only that time I had to go on a long dark bus trip through the remote ghost town suburbs which were all under contruction back then.
There is an ice skating rink, and small Chinese babies are very good at ice skating, I saw a quintuple lutz to double axel.
The mall has a very nice roof garden area to get wet in while taking photos of the view. The cleaners who rake leaves all day were standing under shelter making fun of me for getting wet.
Once I had walked around indoors enough, I descended back to the subway and found a food stand selling 5 mystery balls of mystery meat for $2. They were quite nice, each one had a different mysterious filling of grey boiled flesh. Fittingly grey and moist.
The hills around the West Lake of Hangzhou at dusk
The rain stopped at 4pm. I had my face pressed against the window in anticipation, as soon as I saw it had stopped I was out the door. My destination - the small hill along the edge of the lake with the brick pagoda on top. My verdict on this area - excellent.
I had actually been there on my last trip to Hangzhou, but on that occasion i walked up from a different side and straight back down again, no idea why, because it is an excellent walk all the way along the top of the hill and down the far side into a completely different area of Hangzhou.
There were not too many other people up here, although I could see that everyone who was visiting the lake was waiting for the rain to stop so they could make their mad dash around it in the mini buses to view my 10 new amazing lake sites, I can already tell my list is a big hit.
I could have easily done a list of 10 new things to see on the hill as well, because in the post rain light there was excellent fog and mist, strange twilight sunsets over the city, and a one in one hundred year appearance of the dual hounds of hades! (dogs that guard the gateway to hell).
I wanted to get up there to where that tower is, I assumed I would be able to approach the hill from the pointy bit nearest the city. I was wrong, I made 3 attempts that resulted in retreats.
Instead I found myself walking back along the west lake, lots of people were setting off on their lap now that the rain had stopped.
I have not taken one of these for a few days. I was so happy (cant you tell?) that the rain had left and I could run up a hill today. I originally intended to run up lots more hills a lot further away, but any hill will do.
There are lots of things to do here on the hill. There were some Chinese kids camping here, you can see their rolled up space blanket things on the bottom of this ancient shrine. I told them a ghost story about a weird white guy who collects Chinese childrens teeth, they descended immediately.
I was surprised at what I found on the far side of the hill, here we have a tea plantation, thats it, no more just this little bit in this hidden valley.
Then in an amazing twilight I descended through the sacred bamboo forest, with kung fu warriors flying over head.
This part of Hangzhou is the government building area, it now has a brand new (opened last month) subway line. Here we have the olympic stadium. Can you remember the Hangzhou olympics? So many wonderful memories, China won every single medal and they also came 4th in every event so invented a new kind of medal made of silk.
I returned to the area near my hotel for dinner, descended underground and found a place claiming to sell Hangzhou specialty noodles. OK then. It was noodles, not sure what was special, they were nice and spicy, but just noodles. Hangzhou specialty - plain noodles.
From Hangzhou to Shanghai by bullet train
Now I am in Shanghai, my final destination. That means I have been on my last bullet train ride unless I decided to take a daytrip out of Shanghai that requires lining up for a ticket with my passport again, that is unlikely. That means there will be no more boring days of boring photos of train stations, trains, and my new hotel room. There will probably still be a boring day of airport photos, because what else am I supposed to do when I get to an airport hours early on Thursday?
The trip from Hangzhou to Shanghai was only a bit over an hour, but then you get to the outskirts of Shanghai, to the mega station I have been to a few times before.
From there its a long subway ride into the city, there are now multiple subway lines, I nearly boarded the one I know from previous trips, but as it turns out a newer one gets me much closer to my hotel, google maps doesnt know about it yet.
Actually getting onto the subway was a challenge, I already have a Shanghai transport card from previous trips, but if you have not used it for a few years they need to be reactivated. I went to the service window and told the girl to please check my card, she told me it still had lots of money on it (about $15 AUD which was surprising!), and I assumed that meant it would now work. So I go through the subway security, and of course my card does not work. I stumbled back through lines of people to the service centre. I made sure I went back to the same girl and we had to use a surprising amount of half assed Chinese for me to explain that my card is very old, I have not used it for years, it is not working, please make it work! Eventually another person showed her how to do this.
One last hotel check in story, my visa was fine this time, police were not called on me, but they tried to trick me into buying breakfast with my room. No different to Australia here where they do this to me EVERY TIME. I had pre booked online of course, and the hotel check in girl tells me I want breakfast. Not ask, told. I told her I dont think its included in my booking. She said OK. I said I dont want breakfast unless it is part of the booking. She said OK. Next thing shes showing me the rate on the credit card machine, sounded high, about $200 too high. I checked my booking and it was too high, so I show her my rate and ask why is it so high? Breakfast of course, $50 Australian per day! She was trying to add it on despite me making it very very clear I did not want it added on. I am convinced she was trying to rob me. I called her a cheat in Chinese, told her I am not stupid, fix it now or I will leave. Perhaps where I am staying is owned by Novotel who do that to me everywhere in Australia, only in Australia they love to tell me 'but its a corporate account booking, your work is paying, why do you care?'.
You might think I am being harsh to the hotel staff, but its really nothing compared to what I do to them in Australia. They often add on bullshit room service and minibar charges a month after I have stayed somewhere, when that happens I go back every night in person, and make a big scene about it and tell everyone else checking in that the hotel staff are stealing credit card information to book up fake charges. An ex staff member at the Ibis in Darling Harbour told me they have a quota of fake charges they are expected to add on per month to get a bonus!
That was long winded.
This is a small part of the Hangzhou east station, according to some wikipedia articles, the largest high speed rail station in China. I cant fit it all in even though this is the narrower side.
You can walk all the way around the outside, I tried to capture a bit more of its majestic grandeur.
The inside of it is quite similar to other stations, except 2 levels under here is a lot more restaurants and shopping than other Chinese stations, more like a Japanese station.
And here is the inside of the train. I took an identical photo already on an earlier page, I am sure of it.
My hotel room this time is getting closer to Japanese levels of size and amenity. Although you can still walk on both sides of a full queen size bed.
Finally, bonus bathroom shot due to not many photos today. Not a lot to see here, very modern and clean.
Running along the Shanghai waterfront in the rain
Go to Shanghai, walk along the bund, take photos of big buildings, get approached by girls wanting to show you their art or take you to a tea house. Thats the general order of things.
A bit of very light rain meant I had most of the bund to myself. Actually all of Shanghai seems very quiet, I suspect that compared to other cities in China it actually is. I even noticed this riding the subway back to my hotel, on a Sunday night through peoples square, I could get a seat.
As for the teahouse scammer girls, I of course agreed to go with them for tea tasting, after telling them this is my first time in China and I had arrived at the airport earlier today. They spoke wonderful English.
So off we stroll along the boardwalk, they try to take me in one direction I walk in another, they follow and ask me to please come with them, they know the way. They continued to follow me thinking I just wanted to see the view for quite some time until I told them in fluent Chinese that we would first visit the police station over here where I can explain to them that you are trying to rob me. They ran off. I ran after them yelling PLEASE SELL ME SOME VERY EXPENSIVE TEA!
Bund #1, everyone has seen it before. Since I was last here there is a much much higher building, in fact the worlds second tallest seen here on the right.
A small amount of barely noticeable rain meant I had the place to myself. I took my pants off and screamed nonsense at the top of my lungs to celebrate, then collapsed into a coughing fit. Yes my cough is still terrible.
The rain stopped as I was back at the busy bit, but its really not as busy as I would expect at this time on a Sunday.
Now I walked a long way beyond the other end of the tourist photo area, over the small bridge. Still not dark.
A bit later and I was at the overseas passenger terminal. I couldnt get a decent photo, but they were filming a tv commercial on the dock for a new electric SUV. I could however photograph a passing neon pirate ship.
I am not sure what is going on here, but as far as I could tell there were no shops? This whole are was very quiet.
I thought if I followed the rainbow road I would surely find my dinner. Sydney continues to have ongoing debates about a rainbow painted on the road, meanwhile China has built a kilometre long lit up version to guide all the homosexuals to the mall.
In the mall I found Japanese curry. It is a small serve and vegetarian, but very nice. There are a lot more non Chinese food options in Shanghai.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
jenny on 2018-05-06 said:
lit up harbour looks great. Not impressed with the tallest bulding - looks like a drain pipe. I prefer the bottle opener. They obviously don't need to save power in Chinese cities these days.
mother on 2018-05-06 said:
but are they washlet toilets with heated seats?
Getting to Zhujiajiao on the subway
The subway system in Shanghai is extensive, todays journey was over 50km away from the city centre, and nearly all underground. The destination, one of Shanghai's numerous ancient tourist water towns for the cultural re-appropriation of traditional culture in the form of peppa pig, minions and fake disney lego. My chosen version of this setup? ZhuJiaJiao.
Despite my pessimistic introduction, it was actually quite good. People still actually live here in between the shops and activities for tourists. There is a nearby high end shopping mall due to open with a starbucks, but it was not yet quite open.
The subway to get to this location is also brand new, and drops you about a kilometre away, just far enough to discourage most people from braving such a great terrible unwielding relentless 10 minute walk to their destination. What this means of course is there are already about 100 old men wanting to pull you there in a rickshaw, and indeed, lots of people were taking them up on their offer.
The weather today as you will see, very very grey, also cold, I was surprised at just how cold it was, cold enough for locals to have on full size puffer jackets and balaclavas, possibly as cold as 20 degrees.
The short walk from the subway station to the ancient water town took me through a wet market. I bought some reconstituted powdered sea urchin flavour to go with my fake eggs.
Many places are cafes or bars, but also boutiques, and occasionally an art gallery, just as you might expect.
Here we have the main river running through the area, you can see a bridge going over it, guess where the next photo will be from?
You can pay a small fortune to go on a gondola, imported directly from the factory that exports them to Venice.
Many shops have a resident bird on a chain. The chain is to protect me from the bird, because I was insulting it in Chinese and it was getting angry and trying to attack. As long as I hurled insults from just beyond the reach of the chain I was safe.
They have recently built a few temples in the area to further ancient the ancient town. The temples looked brand new to me.
I walked away a bit from the tourist area and took some photos of the normal streets of a water town where people actually live. Probably fairly wealthy people judging by how well maintained the place is.
I mentioned the subway journey in my intro for today, the last bit is above ground, and goes through miles and miles of bleak nothingness to get here. They still however have built a huge station, ready to handle massive volumes of people that dont exist yet. The subway comes every 5 minutes.
Back in town now, and this is the area near my hotel which has an old neighbourhood. It is very central to Peoples Square and the bund, so its hardly going to be for poor people. Very colorful even on a grey day.
I am not sure what is going on here, someone has hung various pieces of polystyrene off their window where underpants would normally hang. Art / Rubbish / Both?
Last photo for today, my lunch. I went to a bakery, where I would normally browse for 5 minutes, but I was pressured into a fast decision. They had run out of tongs so a bakery girl with plastic gloves followed me around to place things on my tray. I selected charcoal walnut loaf. Not bad!
Nanjing road and finding cold medicine in Shanghai
It is raining again, not hard, but enough to prevent any kind of epic walk this evening. I also have decided that my cough is annoying enough that I need cough medicine. I was starting to develop an abdominal six-pack from excessive coughing. It is mostly a problem as soon as I sit down or go to bed, it is not really an issue when walking around. Last night I was up half the night coughing, no doubt annoying the whole hotel.
In my quest for the cough medicine I decided the best course of action was to head to the main shopping street, Nanjing Road.
This road while still interesting, is a good example of how Shanghai is dated compared to the 'newer' mega cities of China. Some of the shops are closed for redevelopment, but many are now quite old looking, and are huge uninviting concrete cubes with one door and 200 small allocated cube spaces on each floor for individual shops selling jade and ginseng.
Shanghai does of course have hundreds of modern style airy malls filled with modern stores, but the old guard has a long lease on almost everything on Nanjing road.
The best part about Nanjing road now is the numerous people trying to scam tourists. The have not changed much, they still want to sell watch / bag / girl massage, they used to add dvd onto the end of that, but the dvd market has dried up. What they should be selling is xiao mi battery / DJI Drone / ZTE mobile banned by trump?
The good news though, the constant flow of scammers targeting a solo middle aged man gives me a great opportunity to practice speaking Chinese. This was great fun, and I ended up making most of them laugh. Generally my tactic was to tell them I am poor, cant afford to eat, I need a job, please hire me to work with you etc. But I then also enjoyed telling them that I am a government official, or in one amusing case, that I am a confused nun on a religious tour.
Here is the start of Nanjing road, this huge place on the corner is being completely redeveloped to become more modern.
This was not here last time I was here, there was a watsons chemist inside, but I found out watsons is not really a chemist, it is a make up and vitamins shop.
I found Shanghai #1 pharmacy. That was its official name, I suspect they are all numbered. Anyway, there were 3 levels and you had to go to the top level past the ginseng and other crap to get to the actual medicine. They found the young girl but her English was worse than my Chinese. Eventually I was able to tell her in Chinese I wanted western cough medicine, not Chinese traditional medicine. This meant we could stop looking at the broken spore powder and ground turtle shell.
I have no idea what I have bought, but it was $5, its tablets, and I think we agreed I take 2 tablets twice a day.
She then takes it back off you, you get a piece of paper, go and pay, and they want ID. I didnt have my passport on me, but they actually accepted a photo of my passport. Time will tell if I got placebo, poison, or something that will cause me to develop breast soreness.
Pasta night! It did not look like the photo on the menu. The menu said vegetable and chilli wholegrain pasta with olives. I guess I kind of got that but also mystery meat. It was actually quite nice, once again a small serve which is good.
I found myself at the end of Nanjing road soon after, which meant I was back at the bund, in the rain and fog, time for a mysterious photo of the buildings in Pudong disappearing into the night.
The number of dark barges that go past very quickly is amazing, you really could stand here all night.
The bund is actually the old buildings on this side of the river, not the shiny new buildings on the other side. I guess I will go to the other side tomorrow and fire off some photos of the old buildings, until then, heres a preview.
And here is my cough defence pack, paper aeroplane pills and an ice cream. I also bought an apple (a day to keep the doctor away). I dont feel weird from the pills yet. They were bright blue.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
David on 2018-05-08 said:
Ok don't forget the photo, that was pretty random
on 2018-05-08 said:
don't forget the photo !!!
mother on 2018-05-07 said:
Hope the pills work. If you had been in Japan I could have helped you. Still have good Jap cold medicine here too. Nice night shots.
mother on 2018-05-07 said:
water town very nice though water does look sewerish. like alleyways.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
adriana on 2018-05-05 said:
Nice last lot of photos of Hangzhou. The police building would make a nice hotel. Lucky the dogs were friendly.
mother on 2018-05-05 said:
Bad luck today with the rain, but you have been lucky so far. Opportunity to shop? like the fancy shaped new buildings