The yellow crane tower of Wuhan
The main thing to do in Wuhan is to go to the yellow crane tower, the internet is unanimous on this recommendation, so today that is where I went. In recent times (this year) both Theresa May and Narendra Modi have visited. Today it was my turn, someone update wikipedia.
It was a very foggy day, fog blended with pollution, the actual pollution measuring thing says its not bad, so maybe it was actual fog. The fog mainly MATERIALIZED as I crossed the magnificent Yangtze river. This river is no joke, very very wide, and big enough for oil tankers to sail up from Shanghai. I am convinced it was generating its own weather, it was much windier and much foggier when I was over the river, also much colder. Much.
Anyway, both my walk to the yellow crane tower and the crane tower and the surrounding gardens were all excellent. The tower is well worth the reputation as THE place to visit in Wuhan. There is some debate how many times it has been rebuilt, with the current theory being 12. Most times it burnt down. The current version was built in 1981 and is now made of concrete to discourage burning.
In the grounds is a house where Mao hung out and wrote poems and the whole place overlooks the location of the 1911 revolution. This will all be described further in my photos, because I am a very well respected historian.
Before even getting to the yellow crane tower park for revolutionary ideas and idealogical poetry, I first passed through a different park for the erection of the tv tower in memory of the fallen martyrs. It was very nice.
The tv tower arises from the giant mystical cauldron used for the expunging of hermaphrodites, impure thoughts and ghosts.
The tv tower is currently sponsored by oppo, which is re-branded as OnePlus in the USA so they can all pretend its not the Chinese government.
The tv tower throws you out onto a bridge to cross the Yangtze, the fog became very apparent. Through the fog I could see that the river banks are well developed and look like a nice place to exercise on the big steering wheels, run backwards, hug a tree or go dancing.
Now I will cross the Yangtze, enjoy the view. Its very high up, a train runs underneath me, bullet trains!
Here is a view of the bridge. I suspect you can walk over every bridge in China, if they didnt provide a walkway, people would just walk on the road.
Time to yellow crane tower. They built it using big yellow construction cranes, thats how it got its name.
Nearly as amazing as the tower were these pink plants. Everyone was posing with them. They are real and really are that pink. This old lady was a concubine to the last emperor, she hates this place because its where the revolution started. She came here today to show her disrespect.
A bit more tower, see the fog hanging around the base still? Actually its dry ice, they were also playing the theme from Titanic (popular movie) to honor actual survivor of the titanic sinking - current UK Prime Minister Theresa May who recently visited.
Under the tower is a network of tunnels, they have doors which I assume lead into the base of the tower, but they were properly locked. I tried to break in but failed.
Inside the tower they have made a nice picture of the tower, in case from the time it takes to step inside the tower you forgot where you were. This old couple are visiting from Qingdao to celebrate their wedding anniversary, they were inspired by Maos poems as children and always wanted to visit the place that inspired his poetry. Their favourite poem is the one about the bee that flew to the moon and turned into a radish.
Like so many temples around the world that have been destroyed many times, the inside describes all the ways it was previously destroyed and what it used to look like. At one point it fell down due to careless cleaning practices.
This isnt taken from the top, but I had to take a photo because a bullet train is coming! It goes right past the edge of the tower after crossing the Yangtze on the lower deck of the bridge I walked over. You can see the curve onto the bridge in the fog which lingers mainly over the river.
Now for some view, many of the buildings have elaborate roof gardens. They look very nice, even on some buildings that otherwise look horrible.
Here is the rest of the park, there are many other monuments and things to see, as you will soon see, you see, I see, we all see. We are nowhere near the sea.
One of the other towers is an art gallery, currently showing what appears to be comic cells. Some had pictures of superman, or people onboard a subway etc. I couldnt really read the writing, the handwritten cursive characters are too hard to read.
Mr Wang is a business man visiting Wuhan to negotiate the price of PVC from which he makes blinds specifically for covering fridges when stores close. Today he is making a side trip to yellow crane tower to send his elderly mother a photograph of a place they visited together in 1981 - when the tower was last being reconstructed. Mr Wang noted that many of the little stores in the park do not have fridge blinds.
'Barry' did not want to go to school today so he is hiding in the park, he is confident that his auntie will not find him here because she is busy watching Korean soap operas and eating pigs trotters. Although he expressed some concern that having his photo taken would provide evidence of his truancy, he admitted that a waterfall plus his amazing haircut was a combination too good to deny the world.
This is the house / mansion where Mao came for holidays every year and 'paid' poets to write poems that he could attribute to himself. There seems to be some debate if payment was cash or a license to continue living for another year.
As ever, you exit the park through a street filled with souvenirs. They are always so sad when I go into one of their stores and buy a bottle of water.
This is a former military compound that was the site of the Wuchang uprising in 1911. Despite often being attributed to Sun Yat-Sen, he was was actually in the USA at the time on holiday! You can fact check that, I was amazed.
There are many statues celebrating the fall of the last emperor - Puyi. His wikipedia article makes for interesting reading, a tale of eunuchs, a sadistic 7 year old, and his only friend his wet nurse. Was that all in the movie?
This is the 1911 revolution museum. It was closed today. Possibly because it was open for the holiday yesterday. I probably would not have gone in anyway, very impressive looking building.
Last photo, a crappy looking part of Wuhan, another exciting trip to find the subway station through construction sites. Now I will do my washing!
The architecture of Wuhan
Rather than show nice new shiny parts of Wuhan tonight like the last two nights, it was time to show how the regular people live, the people still waiting for their Lamborghini to arrive, the people still waiting to work out how best to exploit people like themselves so that they have enough money to lose it all on cryptocurrency, or perhaps the people whos parents failed to work hard enough to hand them a life of luxury.
Anyway, I wasnt far from the centre of Hankou, the main part of Wuhan, so I doubt I had ventured into anywhere truly 'poor', I was still among people that had real jobs, sent their kids to school, and screamed into their iphones. It was all quite interesting, and I expected much more of central China to be like this rather than the shiny modern conveniences these behemoths of cities have become.
I did of course eventually end up back in a nice enough area to find my dinner, buy a drink, and find the subway back to my room, a bit earlier than usual so that I can make sure I have got all my socks out of the dryer.
Today was my last opportunity to do a load of washing in China, tomorrow I go to Hangzhou where my hotel does not include a washing machine and kitchen. It will again be a long train ride, not as long as the last one, but still a tick over 5 hours. It is also an earlier departure, thankfully my chances of going to the wrong station square this time are very low, but you never know, they may have reconfigured the entire station in the 3 days that I have been here.
Instead of walking along a main road with its nice apartments, I went 2 streets back into the everything happens directly on the street zone.
It wasnt too dirty, the actual road surface and footpaths look like they had been re done recently. The back of everyones apartment is an enclosed tin cage.
The local mall for the less well off is an absolutely enormous structure with boxes and carts everywhere inside, rubbish in piles, rows and rows of tiny shops, fire exits with bars over the doors! I left quickly.
Cheap high rise apartments. This is what my Melbourne apartment will become very soon. I keep reading stories in the news that its going to happen any day now. Any day now all of Melbourne will be the worlds biggest slum. Any day now. Probably next Tuesday. There is no doubt. Any. Day. Now.
Here is the local recycling centre. I quickly drew them up a new waste movement plan to maximise their tricycle throughput.
I diverted from restaurant street to mall world and found omurice. You STILL cannot get omurice in Australia. This is the real mystery, forget about that missing Malaysian airlines jet, how come I can get every type of food in Melbourne including Chongqing noodles, but not one of the most favourite of all Japanese fast food options, omurice? I demand answers.
I also ordered pickled cucumber with chilli, and then blended the two for Japan / Sichuan fusion. Very delicious! My curry sauce was mushroom, but I noticed it had what looked like bacon, could be horse I suppose, but the menu didnt show the meat symbol! Vegetarians would struggle in China.
Who photographs the photographers #2. Another city, another photography school in progress. They were very interested in me photographing them once they realised thats what I was doing.
Wuhan also has a lot of dancing, I didnt notice it the other nights, perhaps because it was a holiday the dancing teacher refuses to dance?
My journey to the subway took me past a walmart. In China the battle for supermarket supremacy is between French Carrefour and American Walmart. I think Carrefour is winning. Trump has sent over a trade delegation to demand China ban Carrefour.
HSR from Wuhan to Hangzhou
The last of the long train rides, I still have one more transit from Hangzhou to Shanghai but thats only an hour, todays journey from Wuhan to Hangzhou was just over 5 hours. You know what that means, boring picture day!
The boring pictures were made a little better by the amazing blue sky and very green scenery. This persisted for the entire journey, and its very clear now outside of my huge wrap around corner window in my hotel room.
Going back a bit in time, Wuhan has successfully connected their high speed train station to the subway and allowed me to leave from the same one I arrived at, amazing. The same thing will / has occurred in Hangzhou, double amazing. Both cities easily sold me a stored value travel card which I collect. This completes the triforce of amazement.
Last time I was in Hangzhou was in 2012, back then they had no subway, now they have 4 lines and 83 stations, all completely underground. Amazing progress. Oops, I reamazed.
Anyway, my train journey was the same as the others, comfortable, long, fast, the first half was 200 km/h but once we went through Nanjing they wound it up to 300. Enough of that, the hotel tried to call the police on me.
When checking into my hotel here in Hangzhou, I had to hand over my passport, as you always have to do. They looked at this in some detail, others were called to look. My Chinese Visa has an enter before date of 20 April. No problem, I entered China on 15 April. It then has 30 days validity. Which means I must leave before 15 May, which I plan to do. My visa was in order.
It would seem the hotel staff do not know about Visas, they thought the enter before date was the expiry date and that I had overstayed my visa by 13 days already. The English speaking clerk, the poor young girl surrounded by men in suits tells me 'your visa expire, we very sorry, must keep passport, must call police, do not attempt to leave'. My response was 'Cool'. She was very surprised by this so I just stood there smiling. No one would speak, so I asked in Chinese if they would like me to explain to them how to read a Chinese visa? They agreed to this and I pointed out that I believed that character is BEFORE, and this is VALID FOR DAYS (30) and that 20 April plus 30 Days is 20 May, today is 3 May, where is the problem? Problem is with you? Problem is with your understanding of China visa? OK, I can have a room key now and my passport returned?
They were very embarrassed and as I went to the lift I heard a great deal of commotion at the person who incorrectly decided my visa had expired, she has been retired back to a rural area for retraining via wheat harvesting.
The inside is an older style, but still large, larger than it looks here, some good stores for a snack and a sit down. I somehow again had a very good mcdonalds coffee in China in a spotless huge store with plush seating.
Now its time for some view from a moving train, random village with nice forest area surrounding it. Most of China is forest!
You see a lot of really nice looking highways from the train window, all elevated like this one. The trains are all elevated as well, which makes for a great view.
We went through a number of large cities, well, we more accurately visited the edges, this is the edge of Hefei, a very large city. We also went past Nanjing where I have also been before. You can see a lot of solar cells on everything, I also saw solar farms out in the countryside.
My hotel room is very large and has a strange separate office area with a divider you can run laps around. I have been running laps.
My room also has a really great view, and its still so clear and blue. I bet it wont be tomorrow when I want a clear view for lake photos!
Bonus photo of the bathroom. I did not take many photos today so as a special treat, a bathroom photo. It has a full huge bath and a huge shower. I took this by photographing the mirror.
City God pavilion of Hangzhou
Hangzhou was nice the last time I came here, apart from the areas that were huge muddy holes in the ground with all the buildings removed on both sides of the main road due to the subway construction. Just about all of that construction is now completed, and just like the rest of China, Hangzhou has become much much nicer.
It is almost like you arent in China, assuming you stick to the lake and surrounding streets. This might annoy some people and if it were to be the only place you visited in China, you would go away with a weird impression of the country.
It is however a very beautiful place, and very deserving of its reputation as domestic tourists favourite location in all of China.
I even saw some western tourists, by western I think I mean Eastern European, who are probably from much less developed places than the scariest places in China. As always, they come to buy up big on Guuci and Rolex, rewards for whatever horrible things they have done in their poor countries to get super rich.
Unfortunately I now have a terrible cough as a result of my cold, it is very very annoying, and at its worst while I am sitting here typing, so less typing unti my cough gets better. Brace yourself for the view.
With such a clear day I thought I better run down to the West Lake to capture the suset. It was worth the effort even though I plan to go there again tomorrow.
Dont be alarmed, its just me photographing the photographers again. They were very very happy with the day they had picked.
I ran all the way up a different hill to a place I had not been to before, the temple of god. You have to pay about $5 to get in to see the view, worth it I think.
Unlike much of China, all these hills are filled with walking trails, some are actual trails too, not just gift shop lined concrete paths.
Hangzhou is another city of about 10 million, growing fast and has a reputation as a rich persons city. Alibaba and a few other tech companies are based here.
The new city with the newer sky scrapers is not in view, even without them it is still a nice looking city.
I descended one level where the roof wasnt getting in the way, a bit late for the sun but it did allow me to do a couple of longer exposures resting my camera on the railing.
Because of all the fantastic trees it is almost impossible to get a photo of the temple of heaven, this is the best I could do. Wedding photography going on in front of it of course.
Now it was time to descend the hill into the huge area of pedestrian shopping streets. This has been gentrified a lot since I was last here, and grown. Gentrification has some benefits - I distinctly remember charging around urgently looking for a place to urinate last time I was here, this time, toilets everywhere.
There really are a lot of streets and alleyways all done up like this. In todays world of walking along reading your phone, I wonder how many people have fallen into the water?
As the official area ends and the scooters return, an unofficial extension has evolved with shops on wheels blocking entire streets.
I found a popular place for dinner, sat at a bar, decided to not have beef noddle soup. This was labeled as exotic sirloin with pickled vegetables on rice. The description was apt. I added a lot of chilli. Photo not focused properly unfortunately.
How is the electricity bill? Imagine living over the road from this, its blinding brilliant white, then red, then it goes black, then it strobes.
I thought I was going to head straight back to my hotel, but a convenient overpass gave me an opportunity to spot some more shiny lights. None of this was here last time I was here, it was just a huge hole up the middle of Hangzhou.
Basement 2 of the Kerry centre had an Ole! improted goods supermarket. Time to indulge in some more expensive fruit salad.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
mother on 2018-05-03 said:
Spectacular sunset photos over the lake. Looks like another interesting place.
bobule on 2018-05-03 said:
what a beautiful city!
jenny on 2018-05-03 said:
All nice hotels, though the bath taps in this one look a bit daggy.
Walking a full lap of the West Lake of Hangzhou
As it was foretold, today I completed a lap of the west lake of Hangzhou.
I completed a similar lap last time I was here, although this time I went a longer way, skipping the main causeway. I suggest doing that because its longer, and the electric mini buses for lazy people all use the causeway, so you get a lengthy respite from always almost being run over by a silent super speedy bus.
The lake is very famous in China and I guess globally for its beauty, a reputation I think it deserves. There are replica lakes in other parts of the world where they have recreated this lake, including in Japan and Beijing.
The lake and causeways and bridges are not new, the signs suggested the causeway had been built in 1200, and that most of the bridges were built then, and of course rebuilt many (many!) times since. This has lead to there being two sets of 10 famous scenes of the west lake, the ancient and the new 10 famous scenes.
Today I am proud to introduce, a BRAND NEW set of the 10 true famous scenes of the west lake of Hangzhou, which will replace both former lists as of today.
Scene #1 - The many layers of impressive varnish. Here we can see the power of modern chemistry at work, keeping this woodwork safe from the punishing filtered rays of polluted sunlight.
All the surrounding areas are impeccably manicured grass and flower beds, do not stand on the grass, I will show you why soon.
This is about the same spot I took a photo from last night. Sky is more polluted today, but still not bad. It was also very hot.
Scene #2 - The birthplace of modern bird flu. It is here that we can trace the roots of the 2021 bird flu plague, when overly tamed pigeons were ingested by a hungry baby.
There are many different kinds of boats you can hire or pay a guy to row you about on. The boats were fine, I was annoyed with the thousands of electric mini buses ferrying the lazy. I was walking alongside them telling the people onboard they were extremely lazy and should be embarrassed.
Scene #3 - Ideal location to silence the misbehaving child permanently. It is here where you have a very good possibility of having people believe that the drowning was an accident.
Scene #4 - Amazing world of floating concrete. Chinese concrete is best concrete, the rise of A.I. and ongoing efforts of revolutionary scientists has lead to the creation of floating concrete, seen here in public for the first time.
Here it is again with a golden bull half submerged. I took a similar photo last time under very grey skies.
Scene #5 - The amazing floating world of rubbish and soft drinks. Without the efforts of the ancient ferrymen, diligently working to move liquid commodities and return their waste products from all parts of the lake, the lake would have been filled in completely by plastic by the end of the third epoch.
Law & Order: Tourism Police. Theres a special police force for everything. There job, to scream at people who dare to walk on the grass. Really, that seemed to be their main job!
The gardens go off of the lake for miles in many directions. There are a few parts you cant get to which seem to 'belong' to hotels, I am not sure they really do, but they have employed a guy in a fake cop suit to tell you that you are not allowed to walk up the road.
I found the boat repair shop. Yes, I wandered off the established path, mainly to escape the electric mini bus catastrophe.
Scene #6 - The tensile strength of synthetic rope. This boat is demonstrating just how far rope technology has come since 1200. At over 4 million Chinese tonnes of submerged displacement, this boat is held in place by just one blue plastic rope. Amazing.
One of the main stops for most people is this pagoda. Many mini buses go here. I walked here obviously since I walked the whole way, but I did not pay to climb the pagoda.
Scene #7 - The dichotomy of grass and tree. Due to the ongoing efforts of the brave tourism police, we are treated to the ridiculousness of the perfect grass.
Scene #8 - Regrets, I have none. Here we have the last opportunity to push her should you only now realise that the level of annoyingness being exhibited by your future wife right now is what you are about to sign up to forever.
Red vs White, hmm, I choose red. There were at least 10 brides to be fighting for the good spots around here.
In the grounds of the pagoda park, there is a food court, with a dicos and a mcdonalds, this is the view from the outdoor seating at mcdonalds.
I am on the far side of the lake by now, about to avoid the causeway and carry on ever further away from the city.
This is the main causeway. I waited for 28 minutes to get a photo without an electric mini bus spoiling the view.
Scene #9 - The effectiveness of the turtle net. Here we can see a wonderful new style of turtle net made from carbon nano tubes. Under the water it is completely invisible, this has increased the yield of turtle meat by 11,000kg per week in the west lake catchment area.
The far side of the lake has many many gardens to wander, and not many people. There was a school sports day happening on a big grassed area, I presume they bribed the tourist police to be allowed on the grass.
I managed to get all 3 in one shot, pagoda, goldfish, waterlilies. The fish are an excellent accompaniment to turtle. Here in China the turtle shell is used as food, when you buy herbal jelly, those cubes of sweet stuff they put in bubble tea, thats turtle shell!
I was now back to where the causeway joined back onto the non causeway. In the last week of my life I have had cause to say the word causeway more times than the rest of my life up until that point.
The view was still great, so many hills to explore if you had time and didnt have an annoying cough.
Scene #10 - The neoness of being. Here we have an amazing neon cornucopia of flowers and sprayed on greenery to form a nondescript shape of awesomeness representing the future hopes and dreams of everyone.
This is actually the grounds and ruins of a Qing dynasty palace. There ruins are covered by large perspex view boxes. The trees were nice.
This is the shorter of the two causeways, I did walk along this one, otherwise you walk along a busy road with noisy traffic. You can see the minibuses approaching. If I were to do a scene #11 it would be about the amazing speed attained by small silent electric buses.
My current hotel does not include breakfast. Therefore a healthy lunch is required to fight off scurvy. Hangzhou delivered in spades. This was very delicious.
Wulin square has been completely rebuilt
Last time I was here I stayed at what was advertised as the centre of everything, Wulin square. At that time, it was a giant hole in the ground, fenced off. It was only on my last night of that visit that I even found the other part of the city where I went last night, which is very vibrant and was then.
I will probably go on and on about this, but it really is amazing what Hangzhou did, they dug up an entire street, knocked down all the buildings on both sides of the street, and dug up the entire city square, all at once.
A few years later its all completed.
Unfortunately for future me who will read this in ten years time, that means tonights photos are rather boring. Oh well, time for some history!
Lets learn about the grand canal.
The grand canal runs for 1770km from Beijing to Hangzhou. Why did they bother building the train instead of investing in speedboats?
The canal was built in the 5th century using now extinct Chinese canal digging bears which evolved during construction to have special paws suited to the task. Once construction was completed they were delicious.
The canal rises over mountains, many new kinds of locks to control the canal were invented during its construction to achieve this, the ideas were all stolen from America.
The canal is still used today, primarily for the transport of coal, and discarded dockless share bikes.
Evidence a hole was here, you can descend into the now fully mall lined hole, and go further down under the grand canal to the subway station.
This is the grand canal, dug by humans! All the way to Beijing. I strapped on my flippers and dived in, I will be at the forbidden city by morning.
I even managed to find a boring dinner, global ramen chain Ippudo. I have been to their stores in Sydney many times, and this time last year I went to their outlet in Taipei. While I have been in China on this trip their first Melbourne branch opened, I will go there soon.
I ordered something bright red, the guy taking my order argued about that, I asked him to speak slower, he said 'thank you sir', and then I did not get my bright red ramen, I got the normal one instead. I should carry a card with me, clear Chinese characters, 'Please give me the spiciest version of whatever you have, I will pay in advance'.
What I want to know is, how many westerners all over the world are ordering food and then refusing to pay for it because it was too spicy? Those people need to stay home and eat something out of their freezer.
There are currently 2 comments - click to add
Mother on 2018-05-04 said:
Ok, more shiny new high rises and beautiful squares and gardens - what about the old and squalid? Where do all the migrant workers hang out?
adriana on 2018-05-04 said:
wonder why they paint the bases of trees white. I like the idea if tourism police for all the rude foreign tourists in Japan.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
Jenny on 2018-05-02 said:
Old firetrap apartments vely intelesting! I was beginning to think there was no poverty left.
David on 2018-05-02 said:
I am assuming the low rise stuff is going to be replaced by more high rise as can be seen at the back right
mother on 2018-05-02 said:
Another beautiful area today. People at work are impressed with your photos. Last photo - are they about to pull down that whole crappy looking area as it is fenced off?