Walking to Erling Park and Testbed 2 in Chongqing
Today I am still sick. I really would like to be not sick tomorrow. Despite being sick, I managed 25,000 steps by 1pm, hiking through the city into Erling Park and then back via the hipster coffee and art gallery area known as Testbed2.
It was also very polluted today, and very hot, and I was sweating huge amounts, drinking huge amounts and taking a tour of every public toilet in Chongqing - all side effects of having a cold.
I have 2 stories to share, I was walking along minding my own business through a neighbourhood market and a small child decided to start kicking me and yelling at me. I could not understand him. He kicked me 3 times, quite hard, and no one did anything about it at all, so I kicked that little bastard square in the face and sent him flying across the footpath. Actually I didnt I fled, I was defeated by a 3 year old angry at white people.
For my next story, I was making one of my many visits to a urinal, standing there making sure my aim is optimal, cleaning lady comes in. Nothing unusual about that in Asian countries. She comes right over to me, leans against the partition thing thats between each urinal, and yells excitedly, Ni shi meiguoren? Which is of course, are you American? So I had to have a chat with an old lady in an orange jump suit and huge plastic sun bonnet while urinating.
First up, I walked through the nice city area, and took photos of hydrangeas. I am an expert on plants, and dancing.
I scaled this ladder to assault the temple. They were really surprised anyone would do this. There was nothing stopping me from climbing the ladder.
Nice temple, nice plants. There was a lady spinning around with a real sword out the front but she put it away when she saw me so I could not get a photo.
In what is becoming a regular Chongqing event, I walked past the end of a building and suddenly realised how high up I was. Before now I had no idea I was more than a few metres above the rivers. You can see the green spine with the buildings I had walked up the middle of.
In the previous photo I was standing on the start of this bridge, now I walked out along it half way.... then crossed the road in the traffic! When I walked back up the other side I passed a security hut and the guy in it yelled something at me that included the word danger, presumably he watched me cross the traffic on camera. It was very slow moving traffic.
You cant really tell how steep that is, but people do walk down there to get to their homes. So much of Chongqing is like that.
Now I am in Erling park. I went here last time to enjoy the view too, however last time I caught the train here. The view as seen above is actually more impressive outside the park. Inside the park, you can go fishing for turtles.
A fairly boring looking building, but if it really was built in the 1940's its in very good condition.
Eventually I found a road to take me where I wanted to go, people live in this building! I could see clothes hung out to dry on the top level.
This is Testbed2. Built on the site of a crumbling money printing factory, they have deliberately left it crumbling and installed a lot of cafes and art galleries. Chinese girls love to come here with their boyfriends to have their photos taken.
To me, there are lots of crumbling places in Chongqing which would be just as good for photos. I guess some of the buildings had graffiti on them which is a novelty. You can also order an $8 deconstructed coffee here, or hand made liquid nitrogen ice cream etc.
Amazing views of the Yangtze river in Chongqing
I said the other night I would have to go out over the bridge once it got dark and take more photos of the Chongqing skyline, so thats exactly what I did. I was not expecting everyone else to be doing the same thing, but they were. This made for an interesting, and at times slightly scary experience.
On my way over to the far side it was ok, I was on the 'wrong' side of the bridge then, and the great crush at this point had not yet started, there was just a semi crush to capture the sunset.
On my way back however, the crush was on. At some point they just shut down all traffic on the bridge and all roads leading on and off the bridge because too many pedestrians were walking in the traffic.
Lines of private security guided by police yelling on megaphones formed human guide ropes to try and make people go in specific directions, but it didnt really work.
People largely just abandoned their cars and stood around nearby looking at the view, for how long I have no idea! I think the people stuck on the bridge fully intended to get stuck there for hours. The buses and cars trapped nearer my hotel however, they were just leaning on the horn non stop. I guess if you are a bus driver and you are told to drive the route anyway, then you have to drive and get stuck in traffic, but any local who decided to drive through this area at this time on a Sunday with a full moon, should surely have known better.
I took way too many pics, I will do my best to cull as many similar photos as I can.
Everyone is selling things in the streets around shopping areas, and as you will see later, everyone is buying too! This woman is selling felt ears, because thats really useful.
Apparently, peppa pig is the most watched television show in China. I have noticed lots of girls have peppa pig backpacks and phone covers, and grown adults buy the balloons.
If you are ever wondering why Maserati / Jaguar / Bentley / Porsche make these hideous SUV's and Ferrari and Lamborghini are following with things that look even more like a Hyundai than this Maserati, then come to China. Everyone is buying a half a million dollar soccer mum truck.
I saw this apple logo in a glass box, but where is the store? Underground. Far far underground. I had no idea this 9 level underground thing was here, but it was quite scary to me to think how far underground I was.
If you get trapped underground you can buy some Chinese lego from a vending machine. Do you think they licensed the disney characters?
This chain store selling these mini sweet baugettes are everywhere around Chongqing. They have the French flag prominently shown, but I doubt the french are into red bean and green tea.
This is Chongqing Mcdonalds, the same brand is everywhere, selling the 5 or so things that Chongqingese eat for every meal. Divide the price by 5 for $AUD. That makes all those things between $1 and $2! Scary.
I settled on a Korean place for dinner, probably the only place that wasnt selling some form of noodles in numbing and spicy sauce. My choice was the Tofu and vegetable stew, and it was delicious, and really quite spicy. I had no idea my meal deal came with that huge drink, I took one sip and decided it had more calories than the entire meal and drank no more.
Fake Gucci. I love the name of the store. By now I was killing time underground waiting for it to start getting dark.
Time to head out over the bridge. Here are the throngs of people heading back after capturing the great sunset, the sun was bright red, I missed it because I was on the wrong side.
Some of the cruise ships are firing up their neon lights ready for the dinner cruises. We will see one again a bit later.
On the far side of the river is the grand theater, so grandly covered in neon LED animated lights - everything is!
Now I am on the far side of the bridge. Rather than cross over in the traffic which was still moving at this point, I decided to walk all the way down the far side and back up the other side of the bridge.
And here is the business district on the far side of the bridge that I never visited. Big lit up buildings wherever you look.
Time to head back into town. Short exposure, hand held, therefore noisy. The bridge wasnt totally stable because trains run along underneath where I was standing.
Traffic was at a standstill by now. Notice everyone has bought some useless piece of crap to stick on their heads. Also those clear balloons with the lights in them are popular. They all have batteries containing mercury that will get thrown out in the normal garbage in an hours time.
One more, portrait orientation. Because traffic had stopped I was able to make decent progress back over the bridge walking mainly on the road, all that was about to change.
Tomorrow I go to Wuhan. It is far, but for me its even further as I am on a train that takes an hour longer as it stops all stations. The faster express bullet trains sold out seconds after tickets went on sale. My travel tomorrow is about 6 hours and I am still sick right now, very annoying.
Despite being sick basically the entire time I was in Chongqing, I thought it was fantastic, but I also feel I only scratched the surface. There are so many parts of the city to explorer its ridiculous. There are also mountains, some in the city, some 2 hours outside, due to poor health I explored none of them. Guess I will have to come back for a third visit.
Chongqing certainly has a very CHINA!!!! feeling about it, there really are no tourists, the food would be challenging for most people, theres very little English signage.
When I say all that I mean 'for a big city in China' I am not comparing to tier 88 cities in Xinjiang.
I do however remember the last time I was here was quite a bit scarier, it was very dirty, there were dog heads for sale in a few places, there were badly crippled begging for money, serious scooter accidents, the whole place smelt like leaded fuel. All that has changed a lot in the last few years.
From Chongqing to Wuhan by high speed rail
Right now I am sitting on a fast train but not a very fast train. For an unknown reason this one sits on only 200 km/h. It is also slower than the other trains going on this route today, most of which cover the journey from Chongqing to Wuhan in 5 hours, mine however takes 6.5 hours.
Unfortunately I missed out on buying a ticket for the faster train, or more to the point, the ticket booking service I used missed out.
Before sitting on this train and typing this, I first had to get to the correct station. Chongqing North, its connected by the subway, so easy, I thought. I left myself plenty of time in case I passed out from man flu, boarded the subway, got off at the right stop, bounded up 200 stairs carrying my suitcase and examined the departure board. Only K trains were shown (very slow trains). I thought they must show the right ones inside, so I went to the security line anyway, everyone looked poor and rural. When I got to the passport check the guy told me I needed to go to the North square of Chongqing North station, not the South square of Chongqing North station.
Confusing! And the subway does not go there, you are supposed to take a bus around the block. Not me of course, I set out on foot up a service road I shouldnt have been on, clamored over some rocks, dragged my suitcase over a wall, navigated a watermelon farm / minefield, and entered the north square via the exit tunnel for the buses. Quite the adventure.
I still had 20 minutes to spare, but I was too late to properly explore the station, instead I just boarded my train, where I am still now sitting some 5 hours later 80% of the way to Wuhan.
Todays journey was uneventful compared to the last, no one spoke to me, most people slept, every now and then a baby would run away from its owner with no pants on down the aisle of the train. There is some English announcements but they dont work, the Chinese ones go for about 30 seconds, then you get 'the next station is beeeeeep'. And thats all! Followed by 'We are arriving at beeeep'. Very convenient.
Because I sat on a train all day, here are a few pathetic pictures of the outside of the station (both sides) and the view through the train window - which never makes for great photos but the scenery was spectacular.
This is the outside of Chongqing North station, but as I explained above, it is the south square not the north square where I needed to be. Was there a tunnel connecting both sides? No. Was there a subway station at the North square where the vast majority of people want to go? No.
Now for some views from the train window, the first half was mountainous, with towns perched on the mountains. I say towns, I googled one nice looking town and it had a population of 870,000 people.
The second half of the journey has been very flat so far, with an inland sea of farm land, all very green. A bit more pollution came back.
Now to see if I can get this to upload from the moving train!
Exploring the Wuhan pedestrian street
Tomorrow is a national holiday, May day, you have all probably seen the traffic and transport chaos that national holidays cause in China. Form what I understand today was a quasi holiday with schools closed and no one working apart from those running shops and restaurants, those people had absolute chaos on their hands.
Wuhan seems to be a very modern, very clean place, but with a touch of European architecture due to all the areas that were set up ages ago on the back of a visit from Marco Polo. The streets are very wide, and large parts of the city have banned cars, only scooters, buses and taxis try to run me over, well mainly the taxis, I am convinced they see a foreigner and aim at them.
There are still some parts of the city that are due to be demolished, people still live there, but I saw huge advertising screens in front of these areas advertising what was coming soon, yet more malls and huge apartments.
The malls here seem particularly flash, probably because they are so new, I went into 3 and they were all very busy, but still in the process of 'soft opening'.
Speaking of which, my hotel is brand new, so new that maps disagree on where it is. It is on the subway, but its on a new subway line, which also isnt on many maps. I thought finding it would be a challenge, I took a best guess at a subway station and managed to buy a Wuhan transport card (I collect these) board the subway, transfer, find my station. Then I decided to exit via exit A and try my luck on the surface......
This is undoubtedly the nicest hotel I have had yet on this trip, and probably any trip since I last came to China, hotels are great value here.
I set out immediately on a long walk, I am feeling a little better, and had a lot of steps to get to meet my daily quota. First I decided to visit the Ming vase shop. If you live in Australia, you have probably seen this shop, it suddenly appears in a condemned building, seems to be open 24 hours a day 7 days a week, seems to be a front for some other kind of business because they never ever get a customer, then it just disappears. It is exactly the same story in China.
Walking around here was very easy, no cars, huge footpaths, nice trees. All very likable so far. When I booked this trip I wasnt sure which city would be the winner for 'least developed', Wuhan or Zhengzhou, so far I would have to say definitely Zhengzhou.
Once again, if you live in Australia, approaching any holiday you will know that temporary crowd control needs to be erected around pandora shops because of Chinese girls. This PanOOra. I am wondering if its the same thing, or a very popular knock off brazenly advertising with a marquee in the main pedestrian street.
Dogs were not popular in Chongqing or Xian. They are very popular in Wuhan. Out the front of most malls the dog parade was on, with all the ridiculously decorated dogs being shown by their owners looking for praise.
I found an unclean part! The rubbish bins. This was outside a huge standing only food stadium arena dome. Those are full of sticks that used to have pierced creatures on them.
Now its for brides in fetching dirty off brown dresses to pose in front of with cardboard gold crowns.
On one side of the road, not pictured, is old falling down multi level tin and rubble poor people housing. Rising from the ashes of a demolished suburb, these huge apartment buildings. Fantastic location, if I lived in Wuhan, it would probably be in one of these. I have noticed that in China the new apartment buildings seem to have more space between them than those that we are building in Australia. You would think in China they would stack them closely together.
I thought Jeans West was an Australian brand? Checking wikipedia, 'Jeanswest is an Australian clothing apparel chain store that is owned and operated by Hong Kong company Glorious Sun'. All hail Glorious Sun and their multi level Jeans West store in thematic cube located in Wuhan China.
There were lots of people on stilts doing things, this guys is playing rock paper scissors with children.
As well as clowns on stilts, there were probably 5 giant transformers advertising out the front of stores. China loves giant robots.
I wasnt going to get into a real restaurant, and I didnt want to stand and eat things off of sticks, so into a mall I went and found the Old fashioned home style Hong Kong diner for some roast pork and frozen vegetables. It is actually delicious, we have the same in Australia. It was about $3, the pork seemed to be very good quality.
Now for the three mall pics, this is the mall where on basement level two I found 50 restaurants and decided on Hong Kong diner food.
And finally, this is my hotel, built on top of a mall. There is a door from the 9th level of the mall into the lobby of my hotel. So if you come to Wuhan you can stay here and never go outside, theres at least 30 restaurants and cafes in the mall including what looked like a flash ramen bar.
There are currently 3 comments - click to add
jenny on 2018-04-30 said:
Ok, crowded mall very crowded. Are crowds easy to negotiate in China or does everyone get in your way like in Australia? Do the locals stand on one side on escalators? Or are they inconsiderate like Adelaidians and stand in the middle?
mother on 2018-04-30 said:
lovely steep, green mountains and clear sky! Are you starting to feel better yet?
David on 2018-04-30 said:
upload from moving train succesful
Donghu East Lake of Wuhan
Today I went to the great east lake of Wuhan which is not to be confused with the great west lake of Hangzhou where I will soon be.
The East lake of Wuhan however was fabulous. Clearly very underrated as it barely even rates a mention on the wikitravel page for Wuhan despite being an absolutely huge beautiful park thats at least 30km all the way round with numerous tourist things to do at different points along your epic journey.
Today being May day, it was quite the popular location, but it was seriously hot, and very humid, Darwin levels of humid. Combining my recovery from a cold, excess fluid consumption and extreme humidity meant I looked like I had been coated in baby oil. This kept most of the locals away from me.
Actually with the whole dockless bike rental thing, everyone rides a bike, its the perfect location for doing this. The other popular form of transport are electric shuttle buses that travel at over 100 km/h with the horn stuck on missing everyone by millimetres, I really wished they would drive into the lake.
Once I reached the far side of the lake there was a hill to climb, this had me very excited, I bounded up and enjoyed the excellent view as you will see, then skipped down the far side into even more amazing gardens, as you will see, then boarded a convenient bus back to the subway which let out into a temporary underground maze to find the station entrance due to ongoing mall construction.
Time for too many photos, taken in tricky light today, very grey at times, very bright at others.
To start the day I crossed a river looking for a subway station, I found one, it was the wrong one, another line not yet shown on the map. Wuhan's subway system is extensive, some of the lines travel over 50km out into the countryside.
After a couple of quick transfers I arrived at scenic area 1 of the great east lake. The scenic areas normally cost money, but I think for May day everything is free! I celebrated by having an ice cream.
Some areas of the park had these nice red trees to examine, in spring. Are they going red now or are they always red? I dont know, Japan is offended if reading this, because Japan owns both red leaves and blossoms, any other countries attempt at having nice versions of either is to be met by the imperial navy.
The lake, like many in China, is divided into lots of mini lakes by artificial dirt causeways lined with trees, and then concrete 'floating' walkways like this. I was grateful for the trees thats for sure.
A brave para-sailer trusting a Chinese parachute. Also if you go for a ride on one of those junks they make you put on a life jacket. I found that interesting, just as when you go on a long distance bus a guy comes on and checks you have your seat belt done up. Neither would be enforced in Australia.
There are numerous temples around the place, Wuhan is where Sun Yat-Sen started the uprising against the Qing dynasty - Chinas last dynasty. Many things are called 'First revolution' (ShouYi). I assume thats old sunny-boy in the statue.
I found a really nice looking bakery inside the park so decided to stop for an early lunch. There were also numerous KFC kiosks selling ice cream and coffee! My rather large sandwich was very delicious.
This temple and pond had a lady practicing opera, western style opera in Italian. She was very good.
I couldnt believe how green everything was. This is a wetland park that has an elevated walkway going through it. The water is all very clear.
No longer in the wetlands, we are now in flower island park area. There were many islands filled with flowers.
Getting to the top of the hills required going through some tunnels, I enjoyed my time in the tunnels, where it was much cooler.
I had walked all the way along there, and had a great time doing it. If you told me to do it again tomorrow, I would be happy. I already have my plan for tomorrow though.
Look how hot I am! In every sense of the word. My shirt was dripping wet. My sweat is oily, probably red oil from Chongqing.
Here is the temple that I showed in the distance on the hill earlier. I had climbed up around the back of the hill so entered via the rear entrance.
The lower levels have an hourly musical performance of Chinese opera with the peacock dance and jade selling ceremony. I decided I could not hang around for that.
Last one of the view, down there is a world famous botanical garden, I read about it on the bus ride home, I did not get to see that either! There is a botanical garden within the lake garden scenic area.
I went out the front entrance of the temple tower and down lots of steps. I had to stay here for ages to take a photo where I wasnt epically upskirting Chinese girls. In the age of #metoo even an accidental photo will get you 20 years jail.
Here is one of numerous lotus ponds, I think I am slightly too early. Perhaps in Hangzhou which is famous for the huge sea of lotus whatevers, they will be in full bloom. I know a lot about flowers since coming to China.
And finally, this is where I got off the bus and had to find a subway station. Due to the construction this was a maze of emergency exits, through a kitchen, through a food court, over a temporary walkway, along a drainage channel, into another food court, through a tent city and finally we came up from under the station some how. I am really glad I know the character for subway (DiTie - 地铁), because it was mostly just hand written temporary signs to follow.
Wuchang in Wuhan
Wanda group is the worlds largest property developer, the worlds largest mall owner, the worlds largest cinema owner and at one point pre disney star wars marvel ownership, the worlds largest movie revenue maker. Where I went to tonight is owned entirely by Wanda group, all of it, the streets, malls, river, air, apartments, subway station, people, dogs and existence.
Whatever they are doing is working, it was almost certainly the 'nicest' place I have ever been to in China, and quite possibly nicer than anywhere I can think of in Australia, surprising for Wuhan.
Wanda group is not even based in Wuhan, they are originally from Dalian but moved to Beijing, I guess they have similar developments all over China similar to Samsung in Korea who do a lot more than make telephones. They also own Hoyts in Australia and at one point were blocked from making an offer for Westfield. The Chinese government has now taken steps to stop Wanda group from investing overseas, so much so that they had to sell their big development site at Circular Quay in Sydney. Thats enough property investment news.
This nice part of Wuhan is not in Hankou (the main part where I was last night), it is over a river a down a stream in Wuchang, wherever it is, it is very photogenic.
We start this evenings picture presentation with a view through a bridge of the area known as Chu He Han Jie, The chu river and Han street. lots of effort has gone into making it look nice.
All the bridges are covered in lights, which look good, but also prevent me getting a clear shot from the bridge of the river and buildings along the river.
The pedestrian street between the river and the normal street is very nice. I think its all new, but made to look old, but also shiny.
The Wanda plaza is enormous, pictures wont show its size. Their power bill must be huge, the maintenance on all the lights on the outside must be huge.
Easily the best dog photo I have ever taken. He just knew how to pose for everyone. I had to wait my turn to take a photo.
Tonight was not as busy as last night, I guess tomorrow is a work day and everyone is resting. But it is never the less / none the less / whatever the less, still quite busy.
This is a movie theme park with rides and lots of VR stuff inside, but it received unfavorable reviews so closed down again within months of opening to be re built. Apparently it reopens again soon.
Not just the pedestrian street is nice, not just the Wanda mall is nice, all the surrounding area is nice as well. Its nice to see somewhere so nice. Gives you a nice feeling that all the nice people can experience something nice and nice.
Another shot of the giant mall, mainly because of the cool lights. Each is an individual glass glowing orb that forms a giant animated wrap around screen.
Apparently here you can return all kinds of electronic items to be recycled and get money back out of the machine? I stuck my new cell phone in there and it gave me $8!
I wanted a turn on the giant slot car track but these kids were hogging it. I told them they would be visited by ghosts in their sleep.
New winner for best Chinglish? I mean it obviously should say 'Normally closed fire door, do not block'. The funniest part is I stuffed up the first pic and went back to take another, by which time 3 groups of Chinese girls were all taking the same photo and giggling. When they saw me coming back smiling, they screamed in terror and ran off laughing.
It makes me wonder how closely all my activities are being watched by inquisitive locals.
What I will now never know because I did not get to ask them is, were they taking the photo so they could post it on wechat with 'white man take photo of sign, how come?' or 'Chinglish is shameful, we need make improve!'. I can speak like that, I am part Chinese, I know thats exactly how they will ask either of those questions.
There are currently 5 comments - click to add
elz on 2018-08-01 said:
I just realized that many of your pictures are slow shutter and the x70 has no image stabilization, you have quite the steady hand.
bobule on 2018-05-03 said:
the lake, tunnels, gardens and sandwich look amazing!
bobule on 2018-05-03 said:
the lake, tunnels, gardens and sandwich look amazing!
mother on 2018-05-01 said:
Your photos are getting very artistic. Even framing images nicely. Very nice. All nice. Love the Chinglish sign. Best I've ever see too.
adriana on 2018-05-01 said:
great lake with interesting islands, bridges and causeways. would be good to see an overhead map of the whole area. I wonder if causeways like that are a Chinese thing?
There are currently 6 comments - click to add
David on 2018-04-30 said:
Fujifilm x70
Brian on 2018-04-30 said:
Remind me what your camera is again
Brian on 2018-04-30 said:
Love the night photos David one word FANTASTIC !
Brian on 2018-04-30 said:
Adriana on 2018-04-29 said:
Seriously,, I never realised China had advanced so much. It looks like another planet. So many people squashed together is definitely scary when things go wrong. Maybe you need some Chinese medicine for your cold.
mother on 2018-04-29 said:
The selfie with the bear is a classic.
some of the high rise buildings in your photos look like they are on a lean.