The high speed train from Zhengzhou to Xian
After what seemed like an all day journey to take a 2 hour train ride, I have arrived at my hotel in Xian.
I will talk more about Xian when I have seen some of Xian.
I already alluded to why it would take so long to get here, lack of availability of high speed train tickets meant I had to leave Zhengzhou from the western station not the central station. Also not the eastern station I arrived at 3 days ago which was connected via the subway system. Instead I took an earlier high speed train to the western station where I waited for 2.5 hours. I expected this to be a huge modern station, well it was modern, but tiny, not even a shop! Just a single platform. I have no idea why it exists, theres not really anything nearby, just farms.
Once I finished waiting for 2.5 hours the ride was quite fun, a group of men played a very loud card game and got super animated. At first I thought they all knew each other, but this is the great thing about China, they didnt. Some of the players got off at intermediate stations, and then other people got on or walked up from other carriages and joined the game.
A guy sitting next to me waited for a while before someone left and he then joined in, the card table was set up by re arranging 2 blocks of 3 seats into club seating, and sticking a bucket on the ground with a suitcase on top, room for 6 players.
They played at the end of the carriage where you can store bags behind the seats, but that area now became standing room for spectators.
If you tried to join someones card game on a train in Australia, you would be arrested at the next station.
Once I arrived at Xian north ultra modern high speed station, I had to do two more tasks before heading to my hotel, both were time consuming. First I had to buy another train ticket for tomorrows adventure, which will be long and challenging, and then I had to buy a ticket for the subway into town. Both of these required line policing where I grab people trying to push in and tell them they have no culture. The final challenge, expereinced by me and many Chinese people, was getting the subway ticket machines to correctly suck in a bank note. Everyone was frustrated by how poorly this was working on all the machines, fix this Xian!
Because of this travel boredom, record low number of photos today!
Here is ZZ central station, I thought it would be really old inside, it was quite modern, it had a KFC but no Starbucks or Mcdonalds. Very busy even though this was around 7:30AM - things dont generally happen early in China.
My 10 minute journey deposited me at the western station, here it is. I walked away from it hoping to find something to amuse myself with, I found nothing. I could not wander far as I was dragging my suitcase.
This is the entirety of the inside of the station, now you might think this looks large, but for a Chinese high speed rail station its tiny. Some of these station serve over a million people each day. This one strangely does not even have a single shop, and no vending machine, nowhere to buy water!
Most trains went straight through without stopping, when mine came only a few of us thirsty individuals clamoured up the stairs with our bags to board the train. There were no escalators or lifts, and at least 50 stairs up to the platform.
Here is Xian, the bell tower to be precise, wheres the bell? This is just a taste of Xian, more on this later. The city seems futuristic, tourist friendly, up market. All because of some clay statues.
This is the view out of my hotel this time, I guess those are the shared gardens for the apartments surrounding them, with skylights into the car park below.
My room is a bit smaller, but very western, very modern. It has a strange entrance and waiting lobby for the separate Shower and Toilet, its all like a Japanese hotel, but probably twice as big.
One unusual thing, it has a well stocked FREE minibar. Yes free. Theres no alcohol but there are chips, chocolates, soft drinks. I remember one time in Nanjing the minibar was free too.
Since I had not eaten, it was time to select a bakery, only 5 to choose from 100 metres from the door of my hotel. I chose one claiming to be Taiwanese, and got a sushi roll sandwich and a huge cake. Both amazingly delicious. I want more of the cake, it had crunchy stuff in it, candied cockroaches perhaps.
The muslim street market of Xian
Everything in Xian is huge and made to look ancient, except its all really very modern, and ultra clean, and well lit. I like it.
There are certainly tourists here, presumably all to see the terracotta warriors, which seem to fund the entire cities wealth even though they are quite a long distance out of the city.
Thats not to say the centre of Xian has no history on offer, there are lots of famous monuments and a huge muslim community who have turned their streets into an amazing amusement park of street stalls and neon lights. I also liked that.
As you will see the entire area has been beautified, with fresh flowers planted everywhere, floral sculptures, good quality street furniture, I could go on, I wont, instead I will go on in the photos below.
I do however already think I need more days in Xian, I am only here for 3 nights.
There is no lack of modern shopping malls. As you will see they started out huge and got bigger and more awesomely ancient Chinese in design.
Here is a random street scene looking back towards the bell tower. Again I probably went the wrong way, but then again there probably is no wrong way in Xian, everywhere is nice.
Here is a pedestrian street. Pffft, it may look nice and clean and modern, but this is the crappy pedestrian street, keep going.
I made a brief stop to challenge some guys to a radio controlled car race. Mine went under an electric bus so I just ran off.
There will not be a lack of modern malls. They are also all joined together by an underground network of tunnels.
The picture doesnt convey this, but this is a book store in a street underpass tunnel. There is nothing else in this tunnel. What the photo doesnt show is that its a steep downward slope. Its like its meant to be a drainage tunnel, but instead its a book shop, maybe its both.
The modestly sized local government office. I presume they have more money than they know what to do with.
Still more flowers. Lots more were being planted, most stores had giant sculptures made out of flowers.
This is a department store. Along here all the stores are ancient China themed. Some might think thats silly but I like it.
This however is not a department store. It gets dark very late here because its a long way west of Beijing. Later on in the distance I could see this was brightly lit up, I will provide a photo on another night.
The main food is sheep, we call it lamb, they prefer to call it mutton, some times they call it baby mutton when they mean lamb. There are lots and lots of stalls carving entire sheep like this in the street.
There are also numerous spice shops, mainly chilli, thats fine by me. This one was featured on CCTV. Just like in Japan, if you have been on NHK, the same applies in China if you have been on CCTV, you should have a sign informing everyone. My number one business plan is fake I have been on CCTV signs. I am sure its already been done.
Running off the network of main streets are these alleyways with signs saying they lead to the Xian mosque. I could not find the mosque, I was looking for minarets though, maybe it doesnt have minarets?
Clearly, Muslim Chinese, or perhaps regular Han Chinese visiting the Muslim Chinese amusement park, enjoy having their feet nibbled by fish.
Just another one of the streets a few blocks away from the main chaos. Someone is making drinks with liquid nitrogen here...dangerous!
Another large chilli shop, this one has not been on CCTV, however they do have the giant stone grinding wheel in use.
Most of the streets have a variation of this bright red lantern thing hanging from the trees, I like it.
This is the entrance to a KTV, going in is probably ok, but I believe people drink to excess in these places. How would you go coming down these steps at 3AM blind drunk? It was flashing bright colors at epileptic speeds.
After all that, I chose dinner poorly, I was in a rush to get back to my hotel as I still have some research to do for tomorrow. I ended up at this Japanese place where I ordered Gyu don (beef bowl). Instead I was given pork schnitzel bowl, with a raw egg on top. I didnt really want crumbed deep fried pork, and in China I dont really want any raw egg. It wasnt great! Not to worry, nearby was a supermarket with the fruit salad bar for second dinner.
Hiking the soldiers route to the top of Huashan in the rain
Today was a very long, very wet day. The steps in my journey went subway - high speed train - free shuttle bus - paid shuttle bus - epic hike in the fog up - epic hike in the even foggier fog down - paid shuttle bus - free shuttle bus - high speed train - subway.
My destination was Huashan, one of Chinas AAAAA tourist destinations, and one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. It is quite high, over 2000 metres, it is very rocky and steep, and it is where you often see photos of people walking along a plank hanging onto a wire. There is more than one mountain in China where you can do the plank walk, but they are not mandatory to climb the mountain, they cost money, you have to line up for an hour, you must wear a harness etc. Today that wasnt even an option, the rain and fog meant it wasnt operating.
I went to Huashan, sometimes referred to as the worlds most dangerous mountain by tour bus companies, to climb the Soldiers route to the top.
When I got off the first bus, it was not raining, there was no fog. When I got off the second bus I could barely see my hand in front of me.
I did buy a poncho but going up I could not put it on because I was overheating. Its supposed to take many hours to the top cable car station up the steep steps, I did it in two hours without stopping. I worked out based on a standard level of a building having 20 stairs, that it was equivalent to walking up 300 floors.
Once you get to the top cable car station, theres nearly as many steps to go again if you want to visit all 4 peaks in the park, so I did just that! At times there were a lot of people, at times there were none, at all times there was fog, this means the photos are crappy!
Despite the weather I had a great time, going down the same way I came up I passed two actual soldiers, they wanted to chat, they seemed impressed that I went up the soldiers path on my own, in the rain and so quickly. Thats enough bragging, onto the crappy pics.
Here is the entrance to the Huashan mountain park, the entrance fee is enormous, $40 Australian dollars. I felt bad for poor Chinese families who may have been spending a huge amount of their income today in such poor weather.
The all important, AAAAA rating. There are not many places in China that get this rating for tourism.
This is where the 2nd shuttle bus ends its journey. Every single other person then headed straight to the cable car, not me...
Locating the start of my path was very easy. In China its all paths, with steps and guide rails, no trails!
I took one last look at a non foggy world, rocks jutting up everywhere. Actually it was already very foggy.
This valley had a brief clearing in the fog, it would be the last, there are the cable cars overhead! I was enjoying myself, I did not wish I was on the cable cars at all.
This is a famous spot on the trail, the 80 degree steps. As you can see theres a couple of different options for how steep you want to go. Also note the rubbish bins, this park was also absolutely spotless, and there were a few brave old folks assigned to emptying the bins.
Despite this being the difficult path, there are still a couple of good quality public toilets built on the edge of a cliff.
Time to keep climbing and look at a lot of padlocks. I had my lock picking kit with me so removed about 20 and hurled them off the cliff.
There are of course temples, shrines, restaurants and even hotels! This one is around the central peak area I think. It was hard to know where I was at any time.
Here is a hotel lobby. An old lady sits at the head of the table and issues warnings to all those who dare pass.
And here is a restaurant, a few people who took the cable car up still walked an hour up the mountain to here in the rain to go to lunch.
Obviously a lot of people buy the ribbons, so they have bonus wires to attach them to all over the place.
I made it to the West cable car station (there are 2 cable cars) thinking there would be a path down from here. Not only could I not find the path but the cable car was not operating. I think its being upgraded? There is however a Dicos thats open despite there being no cable car, and therefore no people!
A Dicos is Chinese Mcdonalds. Without the cable car operating to get to here people would have to walk about 90 minutes from the other cable car.
I broke into the construction zone and explored the new tunnel to where I guess the updated cable car will leave from. Thats enough use of the term 'cable car' for today.
Time to descend. Coming up are the two soldiers I had a lengthy chat with. They were envious that I have no children and no pressure to have children. They dont want to have children. We all agreed that children are useless, and should be thrown off a cliff.
Although it was the same path that I took on the way up, it occasionally split for going up and going down direction, I followed the signs that literally said 'the going up direction'. On the way down this part went out over a sheer drop, I have no way to know how far down because of the fog.
And finally, I am back at the bus station, soaking wet. My camera was starting to play up, fogging over, not turning on.... It seems ok now but is still fogging up hours later.
Last photo, the Huashan north high speed train station. It has a shop! I was able to get a ticket back to Xian departing in only 20 minutes, which was good because I had mild hypothermia by now.
The drum and bell towers of Xian
This evening I did not really go far and I did a bit of a repeat of last night. Mainly because I was starving and my legs were tired from the soldiers path up Huashan from earlier in the day.
I still think Xian is fantastic, I am just scratching the surface. I am yet to see the terracotta warriors, do a lap of the city wall, or see any of the ancient pagodas. You could spend a week here easily.
Tonight I experienced something I had read about, Chinese restaurants that no longer take cash. The only way to pay was one of their mobile phone payment systems where they scan a barcode on your phone generated by an app after you scan a barcode on the cash register that no longer has cash.
When I did find somewhere I could pay cash, they forgot to bring me my change, so I summoned over the waitress and told here in Chinese that she had forgot to bring my my change, and she understood me exactly and apologised. So that was pretty good.
Later on I went to the giant supermarket and hunted around for a cold drink fridge. They all have lots of fridges with drinks in them, but generally the fridges are turned off, very frustrating. This resulted in a staff member enquiring why I was opening all their fridges and feeling their drinks. I was also able to explain to her that I wanted a cold drink not a hot one, which she understood, and pointed me to their cold drink fridge.
For my final activity this evening I delivered on a promise I made last night, to photograph the bell tower and drum tower under lights, scroll on to see those, they are spectacular.
My journey this evening started with a visit to what I thought was one big junk store, but is actually numerous little junk stores sharing the same building. Very interesting, they were closing quite early but I feel as though you could buy anything from here, and most of it would one day short circuit and burn your house down.
Chinese Stationery shop. Lots of pens that work for about 5 minutes. Actually, I remember reading recently that one of the things China has never been able to make are the balls in the end of ballpoint pens, they are all imported from Japan or Germany.
This is the alleyway between the drum tower and bell tower, very busy, quite a few beggars trying to scam tourists.
Here we have some guys with hammers pounding nuts which are then made into a slice a bit like a dryer version of baklava. There are lots of varieties. The hammers are all for show of course. Their power bill must be huge because the lights are terrifyingly bright orange, messing with my cameras exposure compensation.
Instead I found a very delicious place in basement level 2, claiming to serve a local specialty. It had lots of vegetables, many of them pickled, aged smoked meat of some kind, little nut things and rice noodles. It was very nice and something I have not had before.
Now for the night photos of the buildings under lights. This is the bell tower thats in the middle of a big roundabout.
It is the magnificent drum tower. The bell and drum towers are quite close to each other, I cant see a bell or a drum on either of them.
Last photo for tonight, dried milk things. You may have heard about the powdered milk drama, and how Australia foolishly wants to ban it being exported for some stupid reason. In China they are so desperate for milk they are now turning it into compressed blocks of dried milk. There are lots of brands and shapes to choose from.
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bobule on 2018-04-25 said:
great photos, I love the foggy bridge
mother on 2018-04-24 said:
you need to switch your camera on and take the batteries out so it stays open and leave it like that to dry out overnight.
The fog photos look spectacular even though you can't see how high up and how big the drop is - maybe just as well. Needless to say, I would be taking the cable car.
Visiting the Terracotta warriors of Xian by bus
In about 1970, the forgotten former ancient capital of China, Xian, decided that they had nothing much to offer. Smart thinking central party members hatched an ingenious plan. First schools started teaching history about previously unheard of Emperor QinShiHuang and his amazing feats of strength, easily more impressive than anything from the Shaolin guys. Meanwhile, outside of town, in a previously unused field, the secret underground work commenced.
By 1973 they were ready, but unfortunately, no one found the secret prize, this put the order for 900 tour buses placed by the relatives of city officials at risk.
To ensure no further delay in the Xian Renaissance, an old lady was paid to convince farmers that there was oil to be found in the field, they only needed to dig a hole a few feet deep with an ox and shovel to find it, she died soon after of acute disappointment.
To honor the legend of the dead old lady, a local farmer dragged his ox over to the nearby field and dug a hole, planning to charge people to see his oil well which he intended to fill with stolen tar. After digging for no more than an hour, he broke through into a cavern and discovered the amazing terracotta army.
And so, Xian was reborn!
On my walk to the bus to the terracotta warriors, I went outside the northern gate of the city wall. I hope to show some more of the city wall and the view from it later tonight.
China loves their toilets so much, there are now shops set up inside of them. Really this is the hand basin washing area of a huge toilet block.
Here is the city wall outside of the main slow train station. It was very nice of the ancient engineers to leave such a nice space under it for people traveling to the train station hundreds of years later.
In my continuing series of Chinese train stations, here is the Xian main station, which serves only old slow trains. Most of them heading out to the forbidden wastelands of Xinjiang.
This is where you get off the bus at the terracotta warriors museum parking lot. I read all kinds of stories about how the only realistic way to get here is a private expensive tour. Nonsense. The bus was very easy to find, cost $1.50 for the one hour ride, no wait, everyone gets a seat, and no one even bothered me to take the fake shopping tour bus. I think a lot of people come to Xian for the day and go straight from the airport to the terracotta warriors and back to the airport. Those people are missing out!
Here is the entrance. Similar story here. I read everywhere about 4 hour lines, tickets sold out, pushing, fighting, crying. There was none of that. The line to buy tickets had ZERO people, the line to get in through security was also zero people. It was a smoother experience than going to the movies in Australia, because no one demanded I hand over my drink.
I spotted the Australians! Really, they were Australian, GO GO TEAM WADDLE! You might think I am being rude, but this lady was offered a wheelchair by the staff for the 200 metre walk to the excavation pit. She was highly offended, I was highly amused.
The grounds were very nice, and like all AAAAA Chinese tourist attraction zones, spotless. I was also surprised at the cafe, I was able to buy a delicious walnut muffin and big bottle of coke zero for about $3 AUD.
And here they are. Everyone has seen the photo before. The shed over the top is also impressive.
I believe the roof of the tomb was originally just above the heads of the warriors, it wasnt a huge open cavern like this.
It was really not crowded at all, I could get a spot on the fence immediately. Very surprising given all the stories I had read. Some people who came all the way from the other side of the world just to visit this hole in the ground said it was a terrible experience and they wished they had never come because when they finally got here they couldnt see anything.
I think there is still a lot of excavation and restoration going on. This is still the main pit, there are 3 pits to visit, but its really only the big pit number 1 that has a lot of warriors.
Some of them are covered in glad wrap. Many of them are put back together from pieces of broken pottery.
Last one! I hope you got to see enough of one of the most photographed tourist attractions in the world.
On my way to the cafe I went through this high end gift shop. Westerners were actually buying stuff. A guy bought a little jade statue for $1800 AUD.
Here is a particularly well restored warrior. Notice he still has his thumb! Recently in the USA a man took a selfie with one of them that was there visiting, then stole his thumb! What is he planning to do with a clay thumb?
A bit more of the surrounding grounds and the amazing small mountains in the background. I did some research, no accessible path up, but there is a cable car to a restaurant where you can hike around at the top. Whats the point if you cant climb?
Time to exit via a series of shopping malls. Despite further warnings of chaos, no one tried to sell me anything.
After getting back to the city I walked back to my hotel a different way. There is no shortage of malls!
Walking a full loop of the city wall of Xian
It certainly was a big day for doing the tourist things. This evening I walked a full lap of the city wall. I guess not too many tourists actually walk the full lap as it is 13km. Truth be told I ran / walk / photographed. I didnt want to be too fast as I wanted light / dusk / dark, I got that.
You may remember that Mark Zuckerberg ran a lap of the wall when he was here visiting his wife before he was extradited back to the USA for treason recently.
I found the wall to be spectacular, it is really amazing to think that something so huge could be built, not only that, there used to be a lot of them, and this is the only one left anywhere! Time for some mathematics. I figure it to be 5 floors high, so 5 x 3m = 15 metres high. It is probably 20 metres wide. It is 13,000 metres around. There are a few holes in it for cars now but other than that its basically solid! There are also lots of towers and other defences, so lets go with 60% total density...stay with me.
15 x 20 x 13,000 x 0.6 = 2,340,000 m3
Now the bricks are quite small, at most they are 40 cm x 15cm x 10cm, 0.4 x 0.15 x 0.1 = 0.006m3.
Finally then, 2,340,000 / 0.006 = 390,000,000 bricks. Thats 390 million bricks! We are going to need a lot of mortar.
Dont bother googling and telling me the bricks are just a thin layer over the dirt core, I want to keep on believing its solid brick.
The whole wall is also surrounded by a moat, the area between the moat and the wall is a huge park. I peered over the edge numerous times and saw dancing, ping pong, badmington, painting in the park, running, opera etc. I yelled insults at them all knowing I was safe on my fortified wall.
This is the southern gate where you get on the wall. You can get on and off at a lot of places, but apparently this is the biggest gate. They frequently have performances here and in front of it. I found out later there was some kind of advertising event at the northern gate, and by the time I got back to the southern gate that was closed off also for an outdoor concert.
Time to get cracking on the next part of the epic journey. There are of course public toilets every few hundred metres, and also a few little cafes.
Each gate has 2 structures and a big hole in the middle. Even when this was built in 1300 they enjoyed outdoor shows.
Heres a main road outside the city walls, heading west. This is not where the main big buildings are, those far to the south of the old city were a lot bigger. Xian is huge.
I arrived at the golden palace, looked over, saw 3 Lamborghinis go past. Chinese people much prefer a Lambo to any other kind of fancy car. I think the owners lived in the golden temple area.
Very clear here after the rain, which stopped at about lunch time. I was surprised more people were not on the wall enjoying the sunset. I know I was.
Here is a street heading through the old city, taken from near the north gate, looking south. How is everyones geography going? And when I say everyone, I mean my one reader, my mother?
This is the north gate. I think a launch of a make up brand was happening. You can rent out any of the gates for any purpose. I plan to shoot my next youtube unboxing video here.
Here we have a long exposure looking south from the old train station. Buses do a U turn here, hence the cool light trails.
I was here at the old station earlier to catch the bus to the terracotta warriors, only then I was at ground level. Now I am at wall level. I am happy to provide photos at multiple elevations for your viewing pleasure.
The red lights surround the entire wall. It is actually very dark, you have to watch out for the occasional cyclist. If I lived here I would run laps up here often, it is very quiet if you take a couple of steps back from the edge. There is also a building in the distance shooting lasers into the sky.
Looking East outside the wall, there are malls outside the wall as well. No shortage of malls in Xian!
As you can see, they light up all the towers, but not too brightly, just bright enough to let the invading forces know where to aim.
Except they did light this one up very brightly, and its pretty awesome. It was near here I got thrown off the wall just before returning to the South gate where I started, where there was now a concert in progress on the wall.
Now this is what I call a telescope. The guy set up on the bridge in Melbourne needs to up his game.
It was very late by the time I got off the wall, dinner choices were limited, I ended up in a fast food joint, only it was noodles and dumplings fast food. It looks very clean, but the price for a huge bowl of soup and 6 huge steamed buns was alarmingly low, $3. Id prefer it if it were double the price!
The soup was indeed pretty average. Everything in it was overcooked. Probably better than undercooked or cold. I did not eat most of it, it was way too much food for $3.
Tomorrow I head to Chongqing. I have been there before. Due to availability, my train does not depart until after 2pm, and it takes 5 hours. So I still have time to do some more exploring of Xian tomorrow before I leave. Maybe I will update this while sitting on the train to pass the time, who knows, stranger things have happened.
There are currently 4 comments - click to add
bobule on 2018-04-25 said:
excellent photos again, what an amazing place.
mother on 2018-04-25 said:
definitely looks like a place worth more than a couple of days. maybe next time. I'm surprised there are so many malls. I thought the Chinese did all their shopping online these days. Glad they are realizing the importance of their historical buildings for tourism now and not just demolishing everything like they used to.
Brian on 2018-04-25 said:
Looks amazing David. Think we need to add this to our travel plans.
mother on 2018-04-25 said:
Warriors look very impressive. Was it as impressive as it looks? They look like they are standing at attention facing something. I wonder if there is anything in front of them that needs digging out.
I see you are still getting rain.
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Jenny on 2018-04-23 said:
It all looks fabulous - apart from the butchered lambies. so many shopping malls to explore - I would need a month in each city.
adriana on 2018-04-23 said:
YOur train station sounds very much like the Shin Hakodate station in Hokkaido - also nothing to do and no shops - well only a couple. BTW, meant to say earlier that I like the Chinese architecture of new buildings. They don't just look like generic western skyscrapers.