From Beijing to Zhengzhou by bullet train
Today I moved cities, from a 30 million person city to somewhere between 10 and 12 million people, its hard to measure.
Zhengzhou is where I am, and its safe to say its not on the regular tourist trail. I knew this going in, but it was reinforced when I checked into my hotel. Apparently I have booked a room for 2 people, even though I am just 1 person, so the check in girl was very concerned that I might only use one of my 2 breakfast vouchers each morning. She really tried hard to explain to me that to get value I should find someone from my company I am here working for or visiting, and treat them to a hotel breakfast each morning. I told her I was here for tourism, she literally answered, in Chinese, Why?
The journey itself was uneventful, first I had to get to Beijing West high speed train station, which took 2 subway transfers and a lot of carrying my suitcase up and down stairs, luckily I am up to the task.
Getting into the giant, but older station itself requires airport security, they actually checked my passport, x-rayed my bags and checked my ticket at 3 different locations. Inside the station it was chaos, there are newer stations in Beijing, the railway to Shanghai goes from the southern high speed rail terminal which is more like a modern airport, and there is apparently now an even newer one I have yet to go to which I assume is staffed by robots and uses lasers to guide you to your 3d printed train.
The train ride today was not too long, but absolutely full. There is no point trying to take photos out the window of a train traveling at about 320 km/h, I have tried before, it doesnt work well. There were a lot of farms to look at, but the thing I noticed is they have planted big trees in every farm, the vegetables grow between rows of trees. This is almost universal, I assume the government pays the farmers to do this.
Arriving at Zhengzhou was very easy, and the east high speed station here is very modern as the pics will show. Like Beijing I believe there are 3 different big high speed stations as this is a crossroads for all of China. I am leaving from a different station so that will be exciting. I like stations and said station a lot today.
Before leaving Beijing, I took a walk to breakfast, through a Hutong. I found a Cafe Bene which I think is a Korean brand. I had a really good coffee there but it was somewhat ruined by a large group of French tourists who came in and were all dying. They needed to go to the hospital! One woman actually passed out and hit her head on the table, and jolted herself back to life. If I die of a disease while here, blame these French people! I burnt my throat drinking my coffee as fast as I could so I could leave, I wished I got a take away.
If a taxi isnt terrifying enough, you can go in a 3 wheeled electric motorbike taxi. Most of the time they dont tip over.
Here is the street scene outside of Cafe Bene. The trees here will form a complete canopy over the street soon, lots of streets in Beijing are like this.
The Beijing West station is quite far from the centre of the city, and even further from the central business district, this isnt the station itself but it was obvious its a highly developed area.
Here is a small part of the station, I could not get it all in the photo, to do so would mean trying to cross the road, there were fences to prevent that.
The inside of the station is quite modern, but not as modern as the more modern stations which have more modern amenities.
Once you get nearer your platform, you go into a crowded waiting room, and do whatever you can to prevent a line from forming!
The inside of the train. These are very long trains, there are 3 classes, I am in the cheapest class of course, I travel among the people. There are also 2 dining cars, although one is exclusively for first class. Carts full of food and drink come past constantly. The trains are fast and very very quiet, I was also surprised at the lack of lung particles being coughed up constantly, most people went to sleep and were silent.
Here is a view of Zhengzhou new city, its quite far from where I am now which is the old city, hence the title of todays chapter.
I was a bit early to head to my hotel to check in so I looked for food. Duck necks were on offer, I didnt feel like crunching on vertebrae, so I went to....a bakery! I thought I had ordered cheese on toast, it got heated up for me, and looked good, then I bit into it and it was sweet. It is indeed cheese on toast, but with blueberry filling. Surprisingly nice!
Finding my hotel was not hard. It stands out above everything and has a UFO on the top. I already described checking in, it seems to be a great hotel and I think I am paying about $55 a night. It was just about the only hotel I could find to book in Zhengzhou.
It has a full kitchen and full sized fridge. The stove and oven is hidden under that blanket thing, I dont think it has ever been used.
I also get a view in 2 directions. Now this is going to look like I am staying in the middle of a bomb site, but the newer buildings are on the other side of the hotel which is the main shopping pedestrian street and enormous mall area.
Since I am on a corner I also get a different view out of my bathroom, which is also huge. After taking this photo I went downstairs to buy some drinks to put in my huge fridge and the police were on my floor with the staff trying to get into someones room! They motioned for me just to keep going, I did.
Wholesale fabric markets of Zhengzhou
Zhengzhou is a lot different to Beijing! It seems to be a tier of development below Chongqing, which up until now was the most China of places I have been to. I will be back in Chongqing soon to do a comparison.
To give you an idea, no traffic lights! Huge intersections where its just every man for himself, with enclosed motorbike taxis parked in the middle of the road, buses going either side, food carts set up in the traffic with people standing there eating dinner as trucks go past missing them by inches.
At first I spotted what I thought were some huge malls, so I wandered over to them, they are huge malls, but they seem to be for wholesale clothes buyers, they were closing early, and there was rubbish everywhere. I dont think I was wanted here, people were staring at me and pointing etc. and a heap of delivery guys were very amused that I wanted to look inside.
I then headed to the long distance bus station to buy a ticket for tomorrow, there is definitely no English, I thought that would be fine, but there was some confusion over my lack of passport. Eventually I worked out you now (since March) need your passport to buy long distance bus tickets, not to worry the station is very near my hotel so I wandered back and got my passport and bought a ticket successfully. If you did not speak any Chinese I think this would be impossible.
Eventually I worked out the central train station, the long distance bus station, and the wholesale clothes market, were all not really for tourists, and not really for the new generation of Chinese middle class. Back alongside my hotel, and 2 levels under it, I found areas which were a bit shinier!
Perhaps the interesting thing about this is, when I got to the east railway station this afternoon and looked out over the skyscrapers, it looked extremely futuristic, a stark contrast to where I am right now in the centre of town. Perhaps the plan is to build a new city, move everyone over there, demolish the old part and rebuild it! That is very possible, over in Lanzhou they literally removed a mountain.
The mall area outside of my hotel has shops, a lot like what I remember from the crossing into Shenzhen from Hong Kong. To try and get young people to loiter, they have erected the worlds ultimate selfie station.
It is hard to tell in this photo, but this entire roof is a 3d screen. Things jump out at you. I never really saw anything like it before.
This is the central railway station. It does have high speed services, but I couldnt get one to Xian (my next destination). I recently realised the station that I am leaving from on Monday is not connected to the subway. It is however connected to the high speed line from the central station, so I checked if I could get a ticket between two high speed stations in Zhengzhou, and I could! On Monday I will take a 6 minute train ride.
I realise the above sounded very confusing, because it is.
This is the inside of what I thought would be a modern shopping centre. There are multiple levels of this.
This huge building is also what I think is just wholesale junk clothes markets. There were signs suggesting levels 9 and 10 were restaurants but I couldnt get up there, the place seemed shut.
I cant really convey the intersections in still photos, look at all those little things parked in the middle of the road..... there are no traffic lights!
This is also a wholesale clothing market. It was also shut. I then realised there was a whole other world under me, and that crossing the street in the traffic above ground was only for fools and long haired lost Australians.
There are lots of alleyways filled with food carts and little food stands such as this, 3 identical ma la tang shops in a row. They didnt really have anywhere to sit though, so I moved on.
This is back right by my hotel, the cold comfort of neon and stores that are open and trying to attract regular customers.
I descended into the underground, and wandered around a very long maze of little stores and people mingling about doing what they could to avoid what was going on above ground. I couldnt find any food down here which I thought was weird.
I found ma la tang sushi train style, just like the ultra expensive fusion place by my house in Melbourne that charges $38 per person. Here in Zhengzhou, all you can eat is $3. There was no English, and there was some confusion as there are 6 soup choices. The way this all works is you get a bowl of soup on your own personal hot plate, you take things off the train and cook them yourself.
The boss came out from the kitchen and spoke really fast Chinese to me, I told him I can try and understand if he speaks slowly. He told me I am the first American customer he ever had.
This is Erqi square monument, it was constructed to memorialize a labour strike in 1927. I assume many people died. Nothing much of significance happens in China unless many people die. Now its the centre of the city, and about 100 metres from my hotel.
Tomorrow I have to get up early and hope that my bus ticket I purchased in advance takes me somewhere I want to go, I am not entirely sure! More concerning will be if I can actually get back to Zhengzhou, advance purchasing a return ticket seemed to be impossible, I can only buy the ticket in the city the trip originates from. Tomorrow is Saturday, tickets might be hard to come by, stay tuned to find out if I make it back!


















