18 November 2025
Count Togo
Yokosuka and battleship Mikasa
Today I took about a 90 minute train ride to the Navy bases, both US and Japanese at Yokosuka.
It is roughly in the same direction as Kamakura, in fact the train goes through Kamakura, but Yokosuka is on the other side of the peninsular.
It is a sizeable city with a lot of military presence, and you will see US soldiers from I think the navy but also the marines wandering around the city, many in uniform. A lot of American contractors also live in the area and much of the city is set up to provide services to Americans.
Having said all that, it was overall quiet, the designated bar street was mainly closed down, there are some other museums and things to see, the giant Aeon mall had a food court, etc.
For me, the main reason for going was to go see a 'Japanese' battleship, the Mikasa, built in the 1890's. Apparently back then Japan and the UK were allies and Japan lacked the skill to build ships, and so it was built in England. Surprising. This was also the flag ship of the navy for Admiral Togo, who was made a Count by the King of England, and did well in the battle of... Port Arthur. I read this while on the ship and had to immediately look that up, because why was there a naval battle with a Japanese ship near the spot in Tasmania which once held the lone gunman massacre world record? As it turns out, Port Arthur, China (Manchuria).
I make up ridiculous history sometimes, I would struggle to top this.
Here is the station at Yokosuka, not much to look at. There are actually 2 train lines to Yokosuka, this is the JR line which was more convenient from my side of Tokyo.
There are 2 submarines there, one identical behind the other. Both Japanese.
A gun from a ship that we probably can't talk about because it was when Japan was our enemy. Very near here is a French museum about how France taught Japan how to industrialise.
There is a rose garden, with very dark red almost black roses.
Apparently this is where everything happens, Dobuita street. It was very quiet and I think most places have closed down.
There is also a more hotel and department store centric area of the city.
Now for the Mikasa. It is in a park, but the park is all closed for renewal. Thankfully the ship was still open, but some of it is also being renewed. The 800 yen entry fee ($8) was on the expensive side.
There were a couple of other people onboard as well as the workers, but there were also plenty of opportunities for photos with no other people.
Gazing directly into the main gun.
There are 3 locations to steer the boat from. This is the armoured bridge. You would struggle to see where you are going through those tiny slits.
Everything is shiny and painted.
Here is the main bridge. You cannot just wander around it fully as it is roped off, which makes for some tricky photo angles. The funnels above are to yell orders via tubes.
I climbed up various ladders. I have some doubts they were original.
Hmm, there is a cafe onboard.
Below deck now, and most of it has been gutted. This is a Pearl Harbour simulator computer game.
The engines and gears are all gone, now it looks like a hospital.
Where the engines used to be is now a museum.
Along the sides they have preserved some of the original fit out, here is a toilet, hello again google image search.
There are at least 3 different dining room areas, one for the Admiral, one for the Captain, one for the other officers. A lot of space was reserved for dining. This proves its really a British ship.
More dining room. The cupboards are original apparently.
Once I got off again I realised it is not actually floating. It is not really a ship anymore.
A challenger appears.
Back at the mall now, and it is quite large and nautical themed.
There is a decent food court, I had a Poke bowl. Expensive because it had vegetables in it.
And for my final picture, a reminder of where I went, with the sign spelling it out.